OTHER BRANDS
1969 Olma Chronographe Suisse 'Panda dial' + Original box - Cal. Landeron 248
An impressive and cool chronograph with screwed back and round pushers
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This Olma Chronograph is powered by the very popular Landeron 248, used by many famous brands, such as Breitling, Heuer, etc... Here is a stunning with a super clean movement example of a rare stainless steel screwed back with round pushers, the vast majority of the 'Chronographe Suisse' were manufactured with chrome plated cases, square pushers and clipped bottom.
This is one amazingly attractive timepiece.
THE STORY
The Olma factory was born in the 1900s and still exists today after a long journey through the desert in the 1970s and 1980s. The brand was created by Paul Jeannin Bourquin. He started his business under the name of his son Numa Jeannin SA, in Fleurier (Switzerland). The Olma brand was registered on January 22, 1926 and marketed pocket watches typical of the time. In 1942, Olma and Numa were joined to form Numa Jeannin Olma SA. Although Olma has never manufactured its own movements, the brand has introduced interesting innovations in the field of water resistance. Many models are proudly adorned with the “waterproof” label. The Caravelle range, whose caseback is distinguished by an engraved ship, clearly illustrates its nautical vocation on models intended for navigators and divers, such as this model with a “compressor” type case, with its internal rotating bezel.
The Landeron company began in 1873,formed by Charles Alfred Hahn and his brother Aimé Auguste Hahn, and called Charles Hahn & Cie. They produced watches at first, but moved into watch movement production in the 1920's.
In 1924, Charles Hahn (son of the founder, who died in 1875), acquired the patents of Anatole Breitling and began producing chronograph movements. This movement production company took the name, Landeron. In 1925, Landeron merged with Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF), being renamed Fontainemelon et succursale du Landeron. FHF/Landeron became a founding member of Ebauches SA in 1926.
Landeron's column wheel chronograph movements were famous, and the company supplied these movements to many militaries. Examples include Cal. 11 and 13 and the state-of-the-art Cal. 39. Because they held the Breitling patents, Landeron was the exclusive supplier of column wheel chronograph movements until their expiration in the 1930's.
Just before World War II, Landeron developed the first cam actuated chronograph. Their Cal. 47 had three pushers: One to start, another to stop, and a third to reset the counter. They refined this movement to become the two-pusher Cal. 48. This would become one of the most popular chronograph movements ever made, with more than 3.5 million examples produced between 1937 and 1970. The lower price of production compared to a column wheel model meant an average person could afford a chronograph for the first time.
In the 1960's, Landeron produced the first Swiss electric movement, Cal. 4750. It featured a battery-powered balance wheel rather than a mainspring.
THE DATA
- Maker: Olma
- Model: Panda dial
- Reference: N/A
- Case N°: 9330XX
- Year: 1969
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxT): 36x39x14mm
- Caliber: Landeron 248
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original 1968 Olma box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in nice condition. All parts are untouched and unpolished, the sharp angles are preserved. The flawless 'Panda' dial gives an unbeatable touch. It has a very elegant and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
The watch comes with it's original box and a one year guarantee.
1938 Ulysse Nardin Chronograph 'Chronomètre' - 18k Solid pink gold
An extremely rare 1938 Ulysse Nardin chronograph 'Chronomètre' in 18k Solid Pink Gold
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This particular very well preserved timepiece is powered by the upgraded Valjoux 22 GHT caliber, this movement is a milestone in the horological world. Introduced in 1928 this movement was manufactured until 1974, this longevity says it all about the performance. We are proud to offer for sale a stunning and clean example of this extremely rare 18k solid pink gold cased chronometer with articulated lugs and 'Olive' Pushers.
Mat silver with painted Arabic numerals + auxiliary seconds and 30 minutes register dials, outer pulsometer graduation for 30 pulsations, concentric, the tachometric scale. "Baton" blued steel hands. M. 13"' rhodiumed, 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed.
The vast majority of the high-end competitor's chronographs were manufactured in yellow gold.
This amazingly attractive case was manufactured by Ed. & Ch. Nardin (Hammer hallmark 143).
THE STORY
Over the 19th and 20th centuries, Ulysse Nardin earned an exceptional reputation as a master of deck chronometers for naval forces around the world. The accuracy of these instruments was crucial for calculating longitude to determine the ship’s position at sea.
The House won awards for its excellence at the time and supplied its inventions to over 50 navies, geodesy institutes and astronomical observatories. Ulysse Nardin’s pocket chronometers were some of the most prized and coveted chronometers among navy officers and merchant navy captains. It was this nautical history that led Ulysse Nardin to design the iconic Marine Chronometer, an expression of its technical performance.
THE DATA
Maker: Ulysse Nardin
Model: Chronomètre 1938 Pink gold
Case N°: 3996XX
Movement N°: 284XX
Year: 1938
Material: Solid 18k Pink Gold
Dimentions (WxT): 34x44x11mm
Caliber: Ulysse Nardin upgraded Valjoux 22 GHT
Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
Lug width: 18mm
Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This striking and extremely rare chronograph (Chonometer grade) is in very well preserved condition, the sharp angles, polished/Brushed finish and gold hallmarks are present. The complicated 'Two-Tone' doctor's dial housed in the solid pink gold case gives an unbeatable touch to this elegant chronometer.
The hooded articulated lugs makes the watch really present on the wrist despite the 34mm case. It has a very sophisticated and sporty style, an can be worn daily or for formal events.
1969 Enicar Sherpa 'Jet' MK2 GMT - Mint case - Original Guarantee - Ref. 148-35-02
A Fine and Rare iconic watch with its original guarantee.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
First of all, the case is mint and was never repolished, the serial number is sharp and there are no opening scratches.
In 1969 Enicar announced a new two crown GMT et dive watch, based on the automatic AR1145 calibre movement. Dr Hans Hass was a well-known researcher who featured in advertising using the single crown Enicar diver models.
About 1969 a new model Jet was released coinciding with the Mark III Guide.
The baton hands have a thin pencil central lume on the minute hand and a lozenge lume on the hour hand, and the 24h hand is rallye style. The lume dots are reversed from the prior version. Thicker crowns were used. The case became a Supercompressor Sherpa 600, with model number 148.35.02 engraved.
The crown at 2hrs is for adjusting the internal diving countdown disc.
This particular, extremely well preserved model comes with its original guarantee from 1969. All parts are original, even the perfect unfindable crystal.
For more informations on this model, click here.
THE STORY
1854: In early 19th century, the small towns in northwest region of Switzerland such as La Chaux-de-Fonds and Granges, became the centers of Swiss watchmaking. At that time, Racine was a well-known family of watchmaking based in Granges.
1914: Founder Ariste Racine reversed his last name to establish the brand “Enicar”. Ever since, he devoted himself to produce high quality timepieces, among of few, his innovated readable pocket watches, were most-loved by European soldiers and railway crews during WWI.
1930: The new factory set up in Bienne was a significant move that enabled the growth of Enicar’s avant-garde watchmaking excellence. With its name widely spread across European countries, the automatic waterproof collection successfully made its debut to the markets.
1931: Late 30s – 50s were the period of great change. Enicar created a series of Sherpa watches: Dive, Divette and Mini-dive with endurable designs that can live up to extreme harsh environment - corrosive seawater, high pressures, and rapid temperature changes.
1946: With pioneering vision, Enicar’s mechanical watches never ceased to lead the markets with trends. During the 40s, the brand continued to grow with an aim to explore new boundaries. The first chronograph model appeared for the first time in the market marked a prominent step to success.
1951: Enicar took a great step forward with the design of Sherpa jet watches, which were designated by US Air Force during WWII. After war period, Sherpa Collection entered Asian market with gusto to offer Asians both the advanced complications in aviation timing and later on, the mountaineering timing. Today, Sherpa Collection still remains as one of the most remarkable models.
1955: In the early 50s, Enicar received the first certification of accuracy from the renowned Neuchâtel Observatory - the forerunner of C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). The certificate was a symbol of highest precision and reliability.
1956: The 1956 Swiss Expedition set out to conquer successfully the summit of Mount Everest and the Himalayan Ranges, was equipped with Enicar chronometers which had brought the world’s acclaim after the ascent. One of the members, Ernst Reiss, credited the watch for its exceptional precision in extreme weather conditions. Meanwhile, the waterproof Ultrasonic dive watch – Sea Pearl was introduced.
1957: Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer was installed on the rudder of Mayflower II – the replica of 17th century Mayflower. Though immersed into seawater for the 50-day Atlantic voyage, the watch was proved to run with excellent performance in face of harsh conditions, as credited by the ship Captain Alan Villiers.
1958: The British Formula One Champion Stiring Moss took Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer as the reliable timekeeper at his trials. Struck by exceptional performance, the Sherpa varieties were later on, highly acclaimed by Australian World Tennis Champion Ken Rosewall and British Motorcycle Racing Champion Geoff Duke.
1960: An exhibition illustrating the daily life of Lei Feng, the China's people comrade, showcases the accessories including his Enicar watch - all in his Memorial Hall.
1962: Evolving beyond the traditional confines of watchmaking, Enicar unveiled the latest model – Supertest that featured Rubyrotor movement with 30 jewels. The simplicity of the system guaranteed high precision and kept correct time to the second.
1970: Late 60s to 70s were the world of quartz movements. Enicar introduced quartz watches featuring Beta 21 movement developed by the renowned Centre Eletronique Horloger in Switzerland and had won “The Watch of Precision”.
1993: In 1993, Sotheby’s had a large auction of Soviet space ware, of which the antiques Enicar vintage models firstly became a spectacular part. These timepieces were a splendid collection owned by Sergey Korolyov, the eminent Soviet rocket engineer during 50s – 60s.
1994: Enicar was selected as the official watch sponsor for the 12th Asian Games in Hiroshima, Japan. In 1996, Enicar also became the official gift sponsor for the Chinese delegations in the 26th Atlanta Olympic Games.
THE DATA
- Maker: Enicar
- Model: Sherpa 'Jet'
- Reference: 148-35-02
- Case N°: 12610XX
- Year: 1969
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x44x14mm
- Caliber: Enicar AR1145
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Enicar Stainless Steel
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Enicar 1969 guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This iconic diving watch is in very well preserved condition, the serial number is clear and visible and the black dial is flawless. The matching original guarantee makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1941 Audemars Piguet 'Tank' dresswatch in yellow gold - Matching numbers
A fine and extremely rare Audemars Piguet 'Tank' Yellow Gold watch
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This extremely rare Audemars piguet 'Tank' square watch was manufactured in 1941, the condition is exceptionnal, the dial is original (Not refinished), the case and movement have matching numbers. It is not everyday that you can find a 83 years old legendary Audemars piguet, let's not even speak in such near to mint condition ! This particular dress watch is the epitome of elegance.
'Audemars, Piguet Genève' written on the dial with a comma is the correct logo from the era (See the advertisement).
THE STORY
The story of celebrated family-owned manufacturer Audemars Piguet and its universally acclaimed, widely coveted luxury watches begins deep in the Jura Mountains in western Switzerland.
The Vallée de Joux has been a haven of watchmaking since the late 18th century, when the residents of farming communities began creating timepieces during the winter months.
Jules Louis Audemars (1851–1918) and Edward Auguste Piguet (1853–1919), both natives of the region, were already deeply entrenched in the world of watchmaking when they joined forces to form a new house of horology near the end of the 19th century, an alliance that would be the start of a multigenerational family company. With complementary specialties within the field, Audemars and Piguet made the perfect pair in 1875: Audemars, the more technically minded of the two, oversaw production, while Piguet specialized in quality control and led the business and marketing parts of the outfit.
Audemars Piguet’s first major milestone came in 1892, when it created the world’s first minute-repeating movement for a wristwatch. (It was sold to Omega, whose origins date to 1848) That was soon followed in 1899 with the Universelle pocket watch, a masterpiece of horology that boasted a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, alarm and chronograph with jumping seconds. It is still said to be the most complicated timepiece that Audemars Piguet has ever designed.
Between 1918 and 1919, both founders of Audemars Piguet had died and were replaced by their respective sons, incidentally both named Paul. Under the leadership of Paul Louis Audemars and Paul Edward Piguet, the watchmaker continued to innovate. It retained an ever-evolving technical focus and found new praise for its efforts, producing the world’s thinnest pocket-watch caliber in 1925, the first skeletonized pocket watch in 1934 and the world’s thinnest wristwatch in 1946.
THE DATA
- Maker: Audemars Piguet
- Model: 'Tank'
- Case N°: 455XX
- Movement N°: 455XX
- Year: 1941
- Material: Solid 18k yellow gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 25x33x8mm
- Caliber: In house Audemars Piguet
- Bracelet/Strap: New leather havana strap
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The case is very well preserved, the angles are crisp, the original salmon dial and hands are near to mint. This is an extremely elegant and collectible classic timepiece, the case and the movement have matching numbers. In your whole life, you will never come across another gentleman wearing the same excusive watch, this timepiece is just unique.
1961 Vetta Escafandra 'Super Compressor' + Steel strap + Orig. Guarantee - Ref. 250-102
A very rare automatic 'Super Compressor' wristwatch with it's original steel band, advertising and guarantee
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The term “Super Compressor” is one that is quite often misused these days. Most people associate Super Compressor (SC) with any watch that has dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, but it’s not that simple. Super Compressor is a trademarked name for specific case designs made by the case manufacturer Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA). They designed a patented case sealing method that actually became more water tight the deeper the watch went. The deeper you went, the more pressure was applied to the case-back, pressing it against the O-ring gasket.
EPSA made these cases from the late 1950’s into the early 1970’s. The most famous did have dual crowns, one at 2 o’clock and the other at 4 o’clock. The crown at 4 was used to wind the movement and set the time. The crown at 2 was used to rotate the internal diver’s bezel. This unique look is iconic in its own right.
This particular watch was manufactured by Vetta in 1961 and it's lume turned tropical with the time, adding a lot of charm to this very well preserved 42mm timepiece.
We especially appreciate the rare set that comes with the watch: The original steel band, the original guarantee, an original advertising from this model and finally a service invoice.
THE STORY
With Super Compressor divers have, for the most part, easily recognizable features that distinguish them as SC cases. Most, but not all of the SC watches have the distinctive cross-hatching marks on the crowns, and some brands put their respective logos over the cross-hatching. The crowns are typically over sized and thick, making it easier to operate them under water. Another identifying mark is the use of the classic Super Compressor helmet logo. These were almost always stamped at least on the inside of the case-back, and many brands incorporated a more detailed version of the logo on the outside of the case-back.
THE DATA
- Maker: Vetta
- Model: Escafandra (Aka 'Super-Compressor')
- Reference: 250-102
- Case N°: N/A
- Year: 1961
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 42x52x15mm
- Caliber: AS 1680 - 21 Jewels
- Bracelet/Strap: Tan leather + Original Vetta steel bracelet
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Original Vetta guarantee + Advertising + Ancient service invoice
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the overall condition of this impressive 42mm wristwatch. Both time function and the inner rotating bezel work perfectly. The black dial with the tropicalized original lume gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This is a really cool watch that wil draw attention from all watch enthousiast !
We especially appreciate the rare set: The original steel band, the original guarantee, an original advertising from this model and finally a service invoice.
1972 - Piaget Tank Extra-Flat - New Old Stock - 18k Solid gold Case & Buckle - Ref. 908
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A very elegant and rare, unworn, 'new old stock' extra-flat 4mm Piaget
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
First of all, this dashing timepiece was never worn and remained in a collection for 55 years.
Then, the perfect harmony of the satinated solid yellow gold case with the white lacquered dial is stunning. The movement is the famous Piaget 9P1, a legend by itself.
The Piaget caliber 9P is an ultra thin (aka extra flat) handwound mechanical watch movement. Piaget, based in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland at the time, introduced the 9P in 1957. Since that time, Piaget has been recognized by the watch industry for their ultra-thin movement innovations – with over 25 ultra-thin calibers produced by the brand. The 9P, at just 2mm tall it is as thick as a 1 Euro coin, which at the time was thin enough to garner world record breaking status for being the one of the thinnest mechanical movements. It perfectly exemplifies the attention Piaget accords to its finishes, with the circular-grained mainplate, the beveled and hand-drawn bridges and the polished screws on the bridges.
THE STORY
1874
La Côte-aux-Fées is a small village in the Swiss Jura mountains located at over 1000 metres altitude. Winters, often harsh in the region, increase the isolation of this hamlet. This is where Georges-Édouard Piaget began laying the groundwork for what would later become an inimitable signature of fine watchmaking and jewellery.
THE PIAGET DYNASTY
In 1874, at the age of nineteen, Georges-Édouard Piaget set up his first workshop on the family farm where he devoted himself to the manufacture of components and high precision movements. His motto “Always do better than necessary” reflected both his ambition and an ideal of self-surpassing that would continue to permeate the company and contribute to its success. Its reputation began to radiate well beyond the pastures of La Côte-aux-Fées. Soon Piaget would be supplying components and movements to the most prestigious watch brands in Switzerland.
THE TRANSITION
In the twenties, it was under the leadership of Timothée Piaget, Georges-Édouard's son, that the company transformed from being a manufacturer of movements to become a creator of luxury pocket watches and wristwatches. This development would continue and even accelerate under the guidance of the third Piaget generation of Gérald and Valentin. In 1943, Piaget became a registered trademark. Two years later, a large new manufacturing facility was inaugurated in La Côte-aux-Fées to ensure the Maison’s growing activity.
THE REVOLUTION OF ULTRA-THIN
Going further than his predecessors in the field of ultra-thin, Valentin Piaget would make it a real signature of the brand. In 1957, the mechanical hand-wound 9P caliber created a sensation at the Basel Fair. In 1960, an ingenious micro-rotor concept enabled Piaget to launch the thinnest automatic movement in the world, the 12P. These movements allowed Piaget to establish itself as the brand of reference for elegant men’s watches.
THE AUDACITY OF STYLE
“Do what has never been done before” was Valentin Piaget’s directive to the Maison’s designers. The brand caused a sensation in 1963 by launching the first watches featuring dials made of ornamental stone. With cuff watches and pendant watches from the “21st Century Collection”, it would go even further. Over the years, Piaget has charmed many stylish personalities of great allure, including Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren. Piaget creations have reached a level of inventiveness and execution that has become art. So, it was only natural that Piaget would form fruitful relationships with artists, beginning in 1967 with Salvador Dalí.
THE DATA
Maker: Piaget
Model: Tank Extra-Flat '9P1'
Reference: 908
Case N°: 2253XX
Movement N°: 73106XX
Year: 1972
Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold case & Pinbuckle
Dimensions (WxHxT): 23x29x4mm
Caliber: Piaget 9P1
Bracelet/Strap: Black original Piaget leather
Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the 'New Old Stock' unworn condition of this wristwatch. The extra-flat (4mm !) 'Satinated' solid yellow gold case with the white lacquered dial gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. The black Piaget bracelet and the 18k original yellow gold bucle are new aswell. This timepiece can be worn everyday and for more formal events.
1947 Vulcain Cricket MK1 'The President's Watch'
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A fine and extremely well preserved iconic wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
In 1947 Vulcain launched the first ever mechanical alarm movement, which soon achieved worldwide fame. The legendary Cricket calibre took flight before finding its place in the history books as “The Presidents’ Watch”. American heads of state Dwight Eisenhower, Harry Trumann, Richard Nixon and Lyndon Johnson all wore a Vulcain on their wrist, a fact that earned the brand its prestigious reputation. But the technical qualities of Vulcain watches also appealed to explorers and adventurers. From the 1950s onwards, the brand in Le Locle was to partner famous mountaineering and maritime expeditions.
This particular Vulcain Cricket is in 'Museum Condition', the overall condition is stunning, 100% original and working like when it was manufactured 73 years ago !
THE STORY
Vulcain’s history started in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1858 when the two brothers Ditisheim founded their workshop for high-end pocket watches. Their exquisite work not only earned them several World Fair medals, but also created a need for a brand name that they could use to sell their products all over the world. In 1898 they adopted the name Vulcain. This is the French name for the Roman god Vulcan, ruler of fire and volcanoes, and often connected to gold- and blacksmiths.
It was Robert Ditisheim, one of the brother’s son, who took on the challenge of creating the first alarm wristwatch. An interesting fact about the Cricket was that its development started in 1942, in the midst of WWII. This almost makes one wonder
whether its original purpose was military rather than civilian. The development took 5 years in which many obstacles had to be taken. The main challenge was to create an alarm that was loud enough. Vulcain achieved this by creating a mechanism where a hammer hits a membrane. This sound is then amplified by the double case back which acts as a resonance chamber. A designated barrel for the alarm function ensures that the alarm sounds for at least 20 seconds when fully wound. The name Cricket comes from the sound that the alarm makes; quite similar to that of the little insect that shares the same name.
The Cricket got a warm welcome once it was released. Especially in the United States it was embraced by the public. True fame came for the Cricket when the White House Press Photographer’s Association presented President Harry S. Truman with a Vulcain Cricket. President Truman was the first of three US Presidents that actively wore their Cricket, the others being President Dwight D. Eisenhower and President Lyndon B. Johnson. Johnson was even such a fan of the Cricket that during his presidency he gave about 200 Cricket’s away as presents.
THE DATA
- Maker: Vulcain
- Model: Cricket MK1
- Reference: N/A
- Year: 1947
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x43x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House Vulcain 120
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredible condition. The unpolished case is very well preserved, and the original two-tone dial with original lume present looks great. This is a fine classic timepiece, elegant and convenient, perfect for everyday wear.
1942 Ebel Chronograph 'Big eyes' - Solid Pink Gold
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A very rare 1942 Ebel chronograph in 18k Solid Pink Gold
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This particular extremely well preserved timepiece is powered by the Ebel caliber 513 based on the Venus 175, but upgraded (17 Jewels, adjusted to 3 positions) in order to reach high precision standards. Here is a stunning and clean example of a rare 18k solid pink gold Ebel with salmon dial, the vast majority of the chronographs from competitors were made in yellow gold.
This amazingly attractive case was manufactured by the renowned firm Monnier & Co (Hammer hallmark 132).
THE STORY
Yes, it was with the romantic history that this world-famous brand of Swiss watches began. By July 15, 1911, which became the manufacturer’s founding date, Eugene Blum and Alice Levy had been happily married for nine years. They decided to give their new company a name in which they combined their initials. So EBEL is an abbreviation of the capital letters “Eugène Blum Et Lévy.” Unlike numerous other watch companies, whose origins were exclusively men; the Ebel Company has combined the values and qualities inherent in the male and female principles.
In EBEL watches, the model’s sketch and case design became defining for everything else – the movement and the jewelry finish. For its time, this was a very revolutionary approach to watchmaking. The combination of beauty, originality, and practicality immediately set EBEL apart from several other watch brands.
In 1914, EBEL was awarded the gold medal at the National Swiss Exhibition for the best women’s jewelry watch. And the original Montre Pendentif Bijou pendant watch became the most popular women’s model in 1917. Unlike other watch designers of that time, who strove to create complicated and pompous things, Alice Levy gave her watches an interesting and emphasized modest and laconic look. Moreover, all models were equipped with high-quality and precise mechanisms created by Eugene Blum.
The secret of EBEL’s success in all subsequent years was that it managed to avoid extremes and not to become a purely jewelry or designer brand, but to always maintain a reputation as an excellent watchmaker. So, during the economic depression of the 1920s, when the demand for jewelry watches fell sharply, the son of Eugene and Alice – Charles Blum – saved the family business by supplying large watch companies with flawless movements designed by his father.
And in 1935, EBEL became the first Swiss brand to use the Western Electric system for accuracy testing. During the war, EBEL confirmed its reputation as a reliable watchmaker, becoming one of the British army suppliers, which did not prevent the company from immediately returning to its core concept in peacetime. Already in 1964, the asymmetrical model with sapphires and diamonds, Lune Etoile again won first prize in the category “Best Jewelry Watches" at the National Swiss Exhibition in Lausanne.
Alice Levy herself remained the company’s creative director until 1960 and finally retired, leaving the post of chairman of the board of directors only in 1968, when she was 88 years old. But the real rise in popularity was ahead of EBEL. The representative of the third generation of the family, Pierre-Alain Blum, took over the company in the midst of the “Quartz crisis” and was one of the few who resisted the new cheap technology’s temptations continuing to develop the production of mechanics. Thanks to Pierre-Alain, the EBEL models supported the prestige of automatic watches.
THE DATA
- Maker: Ebel
- Model: Chronograph 'Big Eyes'
- Reference: 3
- Case N°: 21028
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Pink Gold
- Dimentions (WxT): 34x42x10mm
- Caliber: Ebel 513
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This striking rare chronograph is in extremely well preserved condition, the sharp angles, polished/Brushed finish and gold hallmarks are present. The salmon dial with applied pink gold dots, matching the case gives an unbeatable touch to this elegant chronograph. It has a very sophisticated and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1963 Chronographe Suisse - Oversized 38mm - NEW OLD STOCK
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A Mint and Rare oversized chronograph with screwed back and round pushers
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This Chronographe Suisse is powered by the very popular Landeron 48, used by many famous brands, such as Breitling, Baume & Mercier, etc... Here is a stunning and super clean example of a rare stainless steel screwed back with round pushers, the vast majority of the 'Chronographe Suisse' were manufactured with chrome plated cases, square pushers and clipped bottom.
This is one amazingly attractive timepiece.
THE STORY
The Landeron company began in 1873,formed by Charles Alfred Hahn and his brother Aimé Auguste Hahn, and called Charles Hahn & Cie. They produced watches at first, but moved into watch movement production in the 1920's.
In 1924, Charles Hahn (son of the founder, who died in 1875), acquired the patents of Anatole Breitling and began producing chronograph movements. This movement production company took the name, Landeron. In 1925, Landeron merged with Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF), being renamed Fontainemelon et succursale du Landeron. FHF/Landeron became a founding member of Ebauches SA in 1926.
Landeron's column wheel chronograph movements were famous, and the company supplied these movements to many militaries. Examples include Cal. 11 and 13 and the state-of-the-art Cal. 39. Because they held the Breitling patents, Landeron was the exclusive supplier of column wheel chronograph movements until their expiration in the 1930's.
Just before World War II, Landeron developed the first cam actuated chronograph. Their Cal. 47 had three pushers: One to start, another to stop, and a third to reset the counter. They refined this movement to become the two-pusher Cal. 48. This would become one of the most popular chronograph movements ever made, with more than 3.5 million examples produced between 1937 and 1970. The lower price of production compared to a column wheel model meant an average person could afford a chronograph for the first time.
In the 1960's, Landeron produced the first Swiss electric movement, Cal. 4750. It featured a battery-powered balance wheel rather than a mainspring.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chronographe Suisse
- Model: Oversized
- Reference: N/A
- Case N°: N/A
- Year: 1963
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxT): 38x45x12,5mm
- Caliber: Landeron 48
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in new condition. All parts are untouched and unpolished, the sharp angles are preserved. The blue tachymetric scale combined with the red telemetric scale gives an unbeatable touch to the pristine silvered dial. It has a very elegant and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1969 - Piaget Tank Extra-Flat 'Clous de Paris' - New Old Stock - 18k Solid gold Case & Buckle - Ref. 9294
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A very elegant and rare, unworn new old stock extra-flat 4mm Piaget
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
First of all, this dashing timepiece was never worn and remained in a collection for 55 years.
Then, the perfect harmony of the 'Clous de Paris' solid yellow gold case with the guilloché dial is stunning. The movement is the famous Piaget 9P1, a legend by itself.
The Piaget caliber 9P is an ultra thin (aka extra flat) handwound mechanical watch movement. Piaget, based in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland at the time, introduced the 9P in 1957. Since that time, Piaget has been recognized by the watch industry for their ultra-thin movement innovations – with over 25 ultra-thin calibers produced by the brand. The 9P, at just 2mm tall it is as thick as a 1 Euro coin, which at the time was thin enough to garner world record breaking status for being the one of the thinnest mechanical movements. It perfectly exemplifies the attention Piaget accords to its finishes, with the vertical Côtes de Genève, the circular-grained mainplate, the beveled and hand-drawn bridges and the polished screws on the bridges.
THE STORY
1874
La Côte-aux-Fées is a small village in the Swiss Jura mountains located at over 1000 metres altitude. Winters, often harsh in the region, increase the isolation of this hamlet. This is where Georges-Édouard Piaget began laying the groundwork for what would later become an inimitable signature of fine watchmaking and jewellery.
THE PIAGET DYNASTY
In 1874, at the age of nineteen, Georges-Édouard Piaget set up his first workshop on the family farm where he devoted himself to the manufacture of components and high precision movements. His motto “Always do better than necessary” reflected both his ambition and an ideal of self-surpassing that would continue to permeate the company and contribute to its success. Its reputation began to radiate well beyond the pastures of La Côte-aux-Fées. Soon Piaget would be supplying components and movements to the most prestigious watch brands in Switzerland.
THE TRANSITION
In the twenties, it was under the leadership of Timothée Piaget, Georges-Édouard's son, that the company transformed from being a manufacturer of movements to become a creator of luxury pocket watches and wristwatches. This development would continue and even accelerate under the guidance of the third Piaget generation of Gérald and Valentin. In 1943, Piaget became a registered trademark. Two years later, a large new manufacturing facility was inaugurated in La Côte-aux-Fées to ensure the Maison’s growing activity.
THE REVOLUTION OF ULTRA-THIN
Going further than his predecessors in the field of ultra-thin, Valentin Piaget would make it a real signature of the brand. In 1957, the mechanical hand-wound 9P caliber created a sensation at the Basel Fair. In 1960, an ingenious micro-rotor concept enabled Piaget to launch the thinnest automatic movement in the world, the 12P. These movements allowed Piaget to establish itself as the brand of reference for elegant men’s watches.
THE AUDACITY OF STYLE
“Do what has never been done before” was Valentin Piaget’s directive to the Maison’s designers. The brand caused a sensation in 1963 by launching the first watches featuring dials made of ornamental stone. With cuff watches and pendant watches from the “21st Century Collection”, it would go even further. Over the years, Piaget has charmed many stylish personalities of great allure, including Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren. Piaget creations have reached a level of inventiveness and execution that has become art. So, it was only natural that Piaget would form fruitful relationships with artists, beginning in 1967 with Salvador Dalí.
THE DATA
Maker: Piaget
Model: Tank Extra-Flat 'Clous de Paris'
Reference: 9294
Case N°: 1427XX
Movement N°: 72950XX
Year: 1969
Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold case & Pinbuckle
Dimensions (WxHxT): 23x29x4mm
Caliber: Piaget 9P1
Bracelet/Strap: Brown alligator leather
Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the new unworn condition of this wristwatch. The extra-flat (4mm !) 'Clous de Paris' solid yellow gold case with the guilloché dial gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. The alligator Piaget bracelet and the 18k yellow gold bucle are new aswell. This timepiece can be worn everyday and for more formal occasions.
1965 Glycine Airman (First generation) Vintage Vietnam Era - Ref. 314050
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The iconic watch, chosen by the U.S. Fighting pilots during the Vietnam war.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Glycine’s first 24-hour watch was developed and launched in the USA. In the 1950s a new model was developed and presented within four months. At first there was only the white version with pencil hands and the PM/AM model. It was a success in the USA and further feedback provided the necessary adjustments to turn it into a world hit.
It is most likely that around 1955 the black version with the famous arrow hand was presented in Basel.
Rolex launched one of the first GMT watches with two hour hands in 1954. Glycine therefore was a trendsetter in the field of pilot watches. The Airman could display two time zones with just one hour hand and was therefore easily manufactured without extra costs for the consumer.
This background gives us a better understanding as to why this small watch, displaying
only 24 hours, was sold with tremendous success in a 12 hour dominated watch world. It was the world getting smaller. The civil airlines and their growing number of passengers demanded a modern watch that was equipped with:
-black 24-hour dial with luminous hands and markings for clear visibility
-rotating bezel for setting a second time zone
-hack second to synchronize time
-date display
-arrow hour hand
-automatic movement
-waterproof
It is very difficult to source one of these iconic watches undammaged with the hacking system working and 100% original, furthermore there were many fakes on the market (As displayed in one of the photos).
Therefore, I am very happy to offer here a superb example that is very well preserved, unpolished and with the hacking system operative.
THE STORY
Today the stately villa at the rue Frédéric-Ingold 5 in Biel Switzerland once again is the residence of part of the Glycine Watch company. The place is still suffused with the grandeur of the old watch age. The glycine (wisteria) is growing against its wall and the green GLYCINE-ALTUS markings are still against the façade. These words in themselves represent the first of many misty historical facts. Two watch companies, Montres Altus S.A. and Manufacture D’Horlogerie Glycine S.A. merged around 1960.
Why the name Altus was dropped to become a model name for a Glycine watch remains unclear.
In the 1920s, watches for the world’s rich and famous were made in this villa. During its early history Glycine became famous for its small movements in priceless ladies watches. Around 1931 Meylan, founder of Glycine in 1914, presented the world with a well functioning self-winding watch of his own invention. Together with his officially tested and past chronometer it was not enough to keep the depression from the door. Glycine, however, survived and was one of the few participants of the Basel Fair in 1938.
Charles Hertig Sr., owner of Glycine since 1953, made the company world famous with the Glycine Airman pilot watch that was launched in the same year.
In 1984 Hans Brechbühler took over the company from Charles Hertig Jr.. Hans’s daughter Katherina teamed up with her father in 1992. This combination had the right ingredients to relaunch the mechanical watch and ultimately the Airman in 1998.
In 2011 Katherina handed the company over to its new owner the Altus Uhren
Holding AG. Stephan Lack took over as CEO of Glycine Watch SA.
THE DATA
- Maker: Glycine
- Model: Airman (First Generation from 1960 to 1967)
- Reference: Pat. 314050
- Case N°: 6998XX
- Year: 1965
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36,5x46x12mm
- Caliber: Glycine Automatic (Base: A. Schild 1701)
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibly good condition for its age. The Stainless Steel case is extremely well preserved and unpolished with the angles still sharp, all parts are original.
The black original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage legendary watch featuring a very useful 24Hrs lockable rotating bezel and a hacking function.
It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1964 Enicar Sherpa 'Super-Divette' MK1 - FULL SET - Ref. 144-35-01
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A Fine and Rare iconic watch with its original guarantee and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
In 1964 Enicar announced a new two crown dive watch, based on the automatic AR1145 calibre movement. Dr Hans Hass was a well-known researcher who featured in advertising using the single crown Enicar diver models. Since the Divette was their single crown brand, Enicar used the brand Super Divette for the two crown model.
The crown at 2hrs is for adjusting the internal diving countdown disc.
This particular, extremely well preserved model comes with its original box and guarantee from 1964. All parts are original, even the perfect unfindable crystal.
THE STORY
1854: In early 19th century, the small towns in northwest region of Switzerland such as La Chaux-de-Fonds and Granges, became the centers of Swiss watchmaking. At that time, Racine was a well-known family of watchmaking based in Granges.
1914: Founder Ariste Racine reversed his last name to establish the brand “Enicar”. Ever since, he devoted himself to produce high quality timepieces, among of few, his innovated readable pocket watches, were most-loved by European soldiers and railway crews during WWI.
1930: The new factory set up in Bienne was a significant move that enabled the growth of Enicar’s avant-garde watchmaking excellence. With its name widely spread across European countries, the automatic waterproof collection successfully made its debut to the markets.
1931: Late 30s – 50s were the period of great change. Enicar created a series of Sherpa watches: Dive, Divette and Mini-dive with endurable designs that can live up to extreme harsh environment - corrosive seawater, high pressures, and rapid temperature changes.
1946: With pioneering vision, Enicar’s mechanical watches never ceased to lead the markets with trends. During the 40s, the brand continued to grow with an aim to explore new boundaries. The first chronograph model appeared for the first time in the market marked a prominent step to success.
1951: Enicar took a great step forward with the design of Sherpa jet watches, which were designated by US Air Force during WWII. After war period, Sherpa Collection entered Asian market with gusto to offer Asians both the advanced complications in aviation timing and later on, the mountaineering timing. Today, Sherpa Collection still remains as one of the most remarkable models.
1955: In the early 50s, Enicar received the first certification of accuracy from the renowned Neuchâtel Observatory - the forerunner of C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). The certificate was a symbol of highest precision and reliability.
1956: The 1956 Swiss Expedition set out to conquer successfully the summit of Mount Everest and the Himalayan Ranges, was equipped with Enicar chronometers which had brought the world’s acclaim after the ascent. One of the members, Ernst Reiss, credited the watch for its exceptional precision in extreme weather conditions. Meanwhile, the waterproof Ultrasonic dive watch – Sea Pearl was introduced.
1957: Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer was installed on the rudder of Mayflower II – the replica of 17th century Mayflower. Though immersed into seawater for the 50-day Atlantic voyage, the watch was proved to run with excellent performance in face of harsh conditions, as credited by the ship Captain Alan Villiers.
1958: The British Formula One Champion Stiring Moss took Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer as the reliable timekeeper at his trials. Struck by exceptional performance, the Sherpa varieties were later on, highly acclaimed by Australian World Tennis Champion Ken Rosewall and British Motorcycle Racing Champion Geoff Duke.
1960: An exhibition illustrating the daily life of Lei Feng, the China's people comrade, showcases the accessories including his Enicar watch - all in his Memorial Hall.
1962: Evolving beyond the traditional confines of watchmaking, Enicar unveiled the latest model – Supertest that featured Rubyrotor movement with 30 jewels. The simplicity of the system guaranteed high precision and kept correct time to the second.
1970: Late 60s to 70s were the world of quartz movements. Enicar introduced quartz watches featuring Beta 21 movement developed by the renowned Centre Eletronique Horloger in Switzerland and had won “The Watch of Precision”.
1993: In 1993, Sotheby’s had a large auction of Soviet space ware, of which the antiques Enicar vintage models firstly became a spectacular part. These timepieces were a splendid collection owned by Sergey Korolyov, the eminent Soviet rocket engineer during 50s – 60s.
1994: Enicar was selected as the official watch sponsor for the 12th Asian Games in Hiroshima, Japan. In 1996, Enicar also became the official gift sponsor for the Chinese delegations in the 26th Atlanta Olympic Games.
THE DATA
- Maker: Enicar
- Model: Sherpa 'Super-Divette'
- Reference: 144-35-01
- Case N°: 7312XX
- Year: 1964
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x44x14mm
- Caliber: Enicar AR1145
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Enicar box & guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This iconic diving watch is in very well preserved condition, the serial number is clear and visible and the black dial is flawless. The matching original guarantee and box makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
