Complications
1968 Jaeger-leCoultre Memovox 'Oversized 37mm' - Stainless Steel ' - Ref. E855
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Memovox was first introduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1950/51 with the manually wound Calibre 489. The two separate crowns allowed you to manually wind and set the alarm and timekeeping parts of the movement separately. The name Memovox is a composite of two Latin word, Memor (remembering) and Vox (voice), meaning "the voice of remembering," a perfect choice for an alarm watch.
A few years after, in 1956, the Cal. 489 was replaced with the Calibre 815, making the Memovox the first automatically wound alarm wristwatch. The alarm function on these cal. 815 Memovox is still wound separately from the rest of the movement. Because there is no on/off switch for the alarm, it is always set if it is wound, so automatic winding would mean the alarm was always set within 12 hours when the watch was running. This could be problematic for obvious reasons.
Finally, we end up with the most iconic Memovox movement, the Calibre 825, which is a cal. 815 with the addition of a date module. Modular movements can be either expertly built or clumsily cobbled together, and the caliber 825 is most definitely the former. The two defining features of the cal. 825 are the so-called "bumper" winding system and the hammer-based alarm. You can actually feel both moving back and forth while the watch is on your wrist, but this is charming rather than annoying.
THE STORY
Not all firms in the watchmaking field have been able to stand the test of time quite like Jaeger-leCoultre, also known as the "watchmaker's watchmaker". Founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre and originally named only LeCoultre, the company provided watchmaking's top brands, such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the high-grade, unfinished movements with which they completed their watches.
In the early 1900s, Cartier's watch supplier Edmond Jaeger sought out Antoine LeCoultre's help in creating the wotld's thinnest watches. The collaboration resulted in the manufacturing of Cartier's earliest Tank and Santos watches, all housed with LeCoultre movements. The team decided to merge in 1937, and the firm officially became the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand by which collectors know it today. Some of the firm's most significant and important timepieces include the Reverso, the Ados travel clock, the Memovox, the Atmos clock and, among modern watches, their Master Complications.
THE DATA
- Maker: Jaeger-leCoultre
- Model: Memovox 'Oversized'
- Reference: E855
- Case N°: 11844XX
- Year: 1968
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37x46x13mm
- Caliber: 825
- Bracelet/Strap: Black
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This wristwatch is in overall very good and untouched original condition. This is a great timepiece, stylish, refined and with a lot of personality. The design is timeless, a classical.
The watch comes with a new black leather strap.
It has a nice presence on the wrist with it's 37mm case an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
Just serviced, it keeps excellent time and comes with a one year guarantee.
1990' Chopard 'Tonneau' Power Reserve automatic - Ref. 2248
A fine and elegant Chopard 'manufacture'
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This impressive and refined timepiece features all the characteristics of elegance and watchmaking savoir-faire. The perfect balance of the silver 'guilloché' dial displays the special functions of the automatic extra-flat movement; Power reserve and circular date. The generous 'Tonneau' shaped solid gold cases has a very nice presence on the wrist. Important details like the Bréguet blued steel hands, guilloché dial, sapphire on the crown, very flat 'two-stepped' case with sapphire crystal, gives an unrivalled touch to this very well preserved timepiece.
THE STORY
Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer from Sonvilier, quickly conquered Switzerland and the world at the age of 24. The artisan watchmaker created works of art with innovative designs, which early on helped him export to such illustrious places like the court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Qualities like precision and reliability were very sought-after characteristics in watches, dating all the way back to the 19th century. With unique chronometers and pocket watches, Louis-Ulysse Chopard aimed to fulfill and exceed these "desires".
Chopard is one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewelry company. Karl-Friedrich, who managed the men's collections, developed sports watches during the 1980s and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, which produces the L.U.C movements, in the 1990s.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chopard
- Model: Tonneau 'Power Reserve'
- Reference: 2248
- Case N°: 1068xx
- Year: 1990'
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38x7mm
- Caliber: Chopard 9644 automatic
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather with 18k Yellow gold Chopard pin buckle
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Chopard box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition and comes with its original Chopard box. The solid gold case is verywell preserved. The silver guilloché dial with Bréguet hands is just mesmerising. This is a very elegant and sharp complicated watch. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and formal events.
1949 - Universal Genève Tri-Compax - Solid 18k Pink gold - Ref. 12295
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market.
This version, from 1949 is not only desirable by the fact that it is in solid 18k Rose gold, but especially because it haves the date numbers not inverted at 11, this is the only dial that has this feature, besides it's very good original condition, the unfindable chronograph pushers aren't worn out on the corners like it is almost all the time the case.
A representation of this particular model is in the Universal Genève archives and featured page 349 (But manufactured in the more common yellow gold case) in the famous Pietro Sala's book ' Universal Watch Genève'.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why.
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy
Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs.
THE DATA
Maker: Universal Genève
Model: Tri-Compax
Reference: 12295
Case N°: 14544XX
Year: 1949
Material: Solid 18k Pink Gold
Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x40x12mm
Caliber: In House UG 481
Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
Lug width: 20mm
Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid pink gold case is very well preserved. This is a very scarce vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and highly collectible (Non-inverted date numbers). A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday use and more formal events.
1969 Enicar Sherpa 'Jet' MK2 GMT - Mint case - Original Guarantee - Ref. 148-35-02
A Fine and Rare iconic watch with its original guarantee.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
First of all, the case is mint and was never repolished, the serial number is sharp and there are no opening scratches.
In 1969 Enicar announced a new two crown GMT et dive watch, based on the automatic AR1145 calibre movement. Dr Hans Hass was a well-known researcher who featured in advertising using the single crown Enicar diver models.
About 1969 a new model Jet was released coinciding with the Mark III Guide.
The baton hands have a thin pencil central lume on the minute hand and a lozenge lume on the hour hand, and the 24h hand is rallye style. The lume dots are reversed from the prior version. Thicker crowns were used. The case became a Supercompressor Sherpa 600, with model number 148.35.02 engraved.
The crown at 2hrs is for adjusting the internal diving countdown disc.
This particular, extremely well preserved model comes with its original guarantee from 1969. All parts are original, even the perfect unfindable crystal.
For more informations on this model, click here.
THE STORY
1854: In early 19th century, the small towns in northwest region of Switzerland such as La Chaux-de-Fonds and Granges, became the centers of Swiss watchmaking. At that time, Racine was a well-known family of watchmaking based in Granges.
1914: Founder Ariste Racine reversed his last name to establish the brand “Enicar”. Ever since, he devoted himself to produce high quality timepieces, among of few, his innovated readable pocket watches, were most-loved by European soldiers and railway crews during WWI.
1930: The new factory set up in Bienne was a significant move that enabled the growth of Enicar’s avant-garde watchmaking excellence. With its name widely spread across European countries, the automatic waterproof collection successfully made its debut to the markets.
1931: Late 30s – 50s were the period of great change. Enicar created a series of Sherpa watches: Dive, Divette and Mini-dive with endurable designs that can live up to extreme harsh environment - corrosive seawater, high pressures, and rapid temperature changes.
1946: With pioneering vision, Enicar’s mechanical watches never ceased to lead the markets with trends. During the 40s, the brand continued to grow with an aim to explore new boundaries. The first chronograph model appeared for the first time in the market marked a prominent step to success.
1951: Enicar took a great step forward with the design of Sherpa jet watches, which were designated by US Air Force during WWII. After war period, Sherpa Collection entered Asian market with gusto to offer Asians both the advanced complications in aviation timing and later on, the mountaineering timing. Today, Sherpa Collection still remains as one of the most remarkable models.
1955: In the early 50s, Enicar received the first certification of accuracy from the renowned Neuchâtel Observatory - the forerunner of C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). The certificate was a symbol of highest precision and reliability.
1956: The 1956 Swiss Expedition set out to conquer successfully the summit of Mount Everest and the Himalayan Ranges, was equipped with Enicar chronometers which had brought the world’s acclaim after the ascent. One of the members, Ernst Reiss, credited the watch for its exceptional precision in extreme weather conditions. Meanwhile, the waterproof Ultrasonic dive watch – Sea Pearl was introduced.
1957: Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer was installed on the rudder of Mayflower II – the replica of 17th century Mayflower. Though immersed into seawater for the 50-day Atlantic voyage, the watch was proved to run with excellent performance in face of harsh conditions, as credited by the ship Captain Alan Villiers.
1958: The British Formula One Champion Stiring Moss took Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer as the reliable timekeeper at his trials. Struck by exceptional performance, the Sherpa varieties were later on, highly acclaimed by Australian World Tennis Champion Ken Rosewall and British Motorcycle Racing Champion Geoff Duke.
1960: An exhibition illustrating the daily life of Lei Feng, the China's people comrade, showcases the accessories including his Enicar watch - all in his Memorial Hall.
1962: Evolving beyond the traditional confines of watchmaking, Enicar unveiled the latest model – Supertest that featured Rubyrotor movement with 30 jewels. The simplicity of the system guaranteed high precision and kept correct time to the second.
1970: Late 60s to 70s were the world of quartz movements. Enicar introduced quartz watches featuring Beta 21 movement developed by the renowned Centre Eletronique Horloger in Switzerland and had won “The Watch of Precision”.
1993: In 1993, Sotheby’s had a large auction of Soviet space ware, of which the antiques Enicar vintage models firstly became a spectacular part. These timepieces were a splendid collection owned by Sergey Korolyov, the eminent Soviet rocket engineer during 50s – 60s.
1994: Enicar was selected as the official watch sponsor for the 12th Asian Games in Hiroshima, Japan. In 1996, Enicar also became the official gift sponsor for the Chinese delegations in the 26th Atlanta Olympic Games.
THE DATA
- Maker: Enicar
- Model: Sherpa 'Jet'
- Reference: 148-35-02
- Case N°: 12610XX
- Year: 1969
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x44x14mm
- Caliber: Enicar AR1145
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Enicar Stainless Steel
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Enicar 1969 guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This iconic diving watch is in very well preserved condition, the serial number is clear and visible and the black dial is flawless. The matching original guarantee makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1961 Vetta Escafandra 'Super Compressor' + Steel strap + Orig. Guarantee - Ref. 250-102
A very rare automatic 'Super Compressor' wristwatch with it's original steel band, advertising and guarantee
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The term “Super Compressor” is one that is quite often misused these days. Most people associate Super Compressor (SC) with any watch that has dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, but it’s not that simple. Super Compressor is a trademarked name for specific case designs made by the case manufacturer Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA). They designed a patented case sealing method that actually became more water tight the deeper the watch went. The deeper you went, the more pressure was applied to the case-back, pressing it against the O-ring gasket.
EPSA made these cases from the late 1950’s into the early 1970’s. The most famous did have dual crowns, one at 2 o’clock and the other at 4 o’clock. The crown at 4 was used to wind the movement and set the time. The crown at 2 was used to rotate the internal diver’s bezel. This unique look is iconic in its own right.
This particular watch was manufactured by Vetta in 1961 and it's lume turned tropical with the time, adding a lot of charm to this very well preserved 42mm timepiece.
We especially appreciate the rare set that comes with the watch: The original steel band, the original guarantee, an original advertising from this model and finally a service invoice.
THE STORY
With Super Compressor divers have, for the most part, easily recognizable features that distinguish them as SC cases. Most, but not all of the SC watches have the distinctive cross-hatching marks on the crowns, and some brands put their respective logos over the cross-hatching. The crowns are typically over sized and thick, making it easier to operate them under water. Another identifying mark is the use of the classic Super Compressor helmet logo. These were almost always stamped at least on the inside of the case-back, and many brands incorporated a more detailed version of the logo on the outside of the case-back.
THE DATA
- Maker: Vetta
- Model: Escafandra (Aka 'Super-Compressor')
- Reference: 250-102
- Case N°: N/A
- Year: 1961
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 42x52x15mm
- Caliber: AS 1680 - 21 Jewels
- Bracelet/Strap: Tan leather + Original Vetta steel bracelet
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Original Vetta guarantee + Advertising + Ancient service invoice
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the overall condition of this impressive 42mm wristwatch. Both time function and the inner rotating bezel work perfectly. The black dial with the tropicalized original lume gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This is a really cool watch that wil draw attention from all watch enthousiast !
We especially appreciate the rare set: The original steel band, the original guarantee, an original advertising from this model and finally a service invoice.
1966 Breitling Unitime 'First batch' aka ''No serial' - FULL SET - Ref. 1765
A very rare and mint legendary chronograph with its original papers and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Breitling 'Unitime' is one of the most iconic and sought-after wristwatch.
And this mint example comes with its original guarantee and owner's manual !
This chronograph dates to 1966, and it has a beautiful overall aesthetic. It even comes with its original papers and box which is extremely rare. The movement features a "WOG" engraving, indicating it was destined for the U.S. market. WOG was the U.S. import mark for Breitling and Wakmann Watch Co., the U.S. importer for Breitling at the time.
A batch of this early Untime 1765 reference was not engraved with a serial number. It was not polished off. This is confirmed information. There is no indication why these left the factory without a serial number but they are known by collectors as 'No serial' Unitime.
THE STORY
For many aviators, a watch made by Breitling is an indispensable piece of gear. In fact, the manufacture from St. Imier can be said to have created the genre of aviators’ chronographs—even the chronograph as we know it. The brand made its name early on for the production of chronograph pocket watches, introduced the first wrist chronograph in 1915, and changed the face of horology forever by adding a second pusher to a wrist chronograph in 1934.That move was an absolute game-changer, and before long air forces such as the RAF were commissioning Breitling chronographs for their pilots.
While the Navitimer—with its slide rule and its association with astronaut Scott Carpenter—is perhaps the best-known of Breitling’s aviator’s chronographs, the Reference 765 and its successor, the Reference 1765, is in our opinion the most wearable.
Simply put, it’s just plain sexy, in the way that only military or military-inspired chronographs can be.
Like the Breguet Type 20 or the Zenith A. Cairelli, the Reference 765 or AVI was designed for helicopter pilots. Eager to secure a contract with the French army, Breitling rolled out the AVI in 1953. Unlike the dial of the Navitimer, which is jam-packed with information, the dial of the AVI is uncluttered, with only the information that you absolutely need—hours, minutes, and counters for running seconds, hours, and 30 minutes.
All evenly-spaced, the hour markers and the hands coated in luminescent material, the chronograph registers a stark white against the black of the dial, and all surmounted by a rotating steel bezel.
Unfortunately, the AVI’s lack of a flyback function meant that it was passed over in favor of the Type 20, which is now ranked as perhaps one of the finest military chronographs in existence.
Breitling adapted it for civilian use as the Co-Pilot, and it was worn to perfection by Raquel Welch in the 1967 film Fathom. Breitling ads promoted the watch’s appearance on film, stating that someone or something—either the watch or the woman—“[steals] the scenes, in film and real life.” (Nina who?)
Sometime in the late 1960s, the Reference 1765 was introduced, larger than the Reference 765 and without the catchy name.
And around the same time, Breitling introduced this watch—the Reference 1765 Unitime.
When it was released, 24-hour dials were a relatively new invention conceived by Glycine for their Airman. However, unlike the Airman, the Unitime has the addition of a chronograph complication. It’s a rare bird, with production numbers only around 1000.
THE DATA
- Maker:Breitling
- Model: Unitime 'First batch' aka ''No serial'
- Reference: 1765
- Case N°: No serial (As it should be)
- Year: 1966
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 41x48x13mm
- Caliber: Manually wound Breitling (Base: Venus 178)
- Bracelet/Strap: NATO nylon long strap
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Original Breitling guarantee + Original owner's manual + Original 1966 box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in extremely very well preserved condition, unpolished, all the angles are very sharp. The bezel is not loose, the crystal is original ,as all the rest. The 1966 dial as the hands looks like new ! This is a true time capsule with it's original papers and box, a collector's dream...
It has an elegant, virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1971 Zenith Defy 'Gauss' Super-antimagnetic 'High Beat' - FULL SET - Ref. 50038-6
A fine and rare 28.800 Bph Zenith Automatic Super-antimagnetic 'Gauss'
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The rare and unusual Defy Gauss was the answer from Zenith to the Rolex Milgauss 1019 and the IWC Ingenieur. Featuring a dust cap and built in a strong screw-back case with dials made of anti-magnetic material., the Defy Gauss was only produced in 550 pieces featuring a black dial, 600 pieces with a blue dial and 950 pieces with a silver dial, making this anti-magnetic Zenith wristwatch a rare watch indeed.
Produced between 1971-73 in very limited numbers, the Zenith Defy Gauss is now a truly collector's timepiece.
Like the standard tonneau defy, spaceman, and tv case in same production period, the Gauss featured a Zenith caliber 2562pc shock resistant protected high frequency 28.8k movement. The aggressive and futuristic 38mm unpolished steel tonneau case was water resistant to 300m (superior to the Rolex Milgauss of similar production period).
This particular Zenith houses a high grade caliber 2562 PC, manufactured only for a few years. The brushed steel case and the Zenith 'Lobster' steel bracelet are in very good condition with some slight signs of wear. The original black dial, the rarest (550 only were manufactured !) gives to this watch a very elegant and sporty look.
The 2562 PC has 23 jewels, a 46 hour power reserve, and beats at 28,800/bph. It features a screwless Glucydur balance and fine regulator adjustment by eccentric screw. It winds on ball bearings via a click-wheel switcher on the crown wheel. The 2562 is a truly excellent performer, and well-capable of attaining chronometer status.
This watch comes with its original Zenith box and Zenith guarantee.
THE STORY
Today when one thinks of a vintage Zenith, the first thing that comes to mind is the El Primero chronographs. But other than its chronograph pieces, Zenith was also busy creating other sports models and tool watches, taking cues from 1960s and 1970s design. This example is another creation by the manufacturer that is simply a workhorse type piece perfect for everyday wear. The case measures 38mm across, and the tonneau-shape is 45mm from top to bottom, and this certainly create quite a presence on the wrist. The dial is uncomplicated with legibility in mind, but with the little quirkiness of the date being at four. Keeping in line with Zenith’s legacy as a movement maker, the watch is fitted with a self-winding caliber 2562PC, which is a high-beat movement with great performance that was used in the Respirator models from the same era.
THE DATA
- Maker: Zenith
- Model: Defy 'Gauss'
- Reference: 50038-6
- Case N°: 317E1XX
- Year: 1971
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x45x14mm
- Caliber: In house Automatic Zenith 2562 PC
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Zenith Steel 'Lobster'
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Original Zenith box & Original Zenith guarantee
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
The tonneau steel case and bracelet are in very good condition with some minor signs of wear, it has kept its original angles nicely. The original black dial and mineral crystal are perfect. The dial, case and crown are signed, all parts are original. It has a cool and virile presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
This particular timepiece comes with it's original Zenith box and guarantee.
1974 Zenith Espada (El Primero) Mint condition - FULL SET - Ref. 01.0040.418
The world's first automatic chronograph with full calendar and moonphase with its original papers and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
There’s so much to say about this watch, so why not start by saying this: this particular model, the ‘El Primero’ Espada, was the world first automatic chronograph with full calendar and moonphase. Then, only 500 exemplaries of this reference (01.0040.418), known as the 'Second series', were manufactured between 1973 and 1974. The 'First series', the reference A7817, was manufactured in 1972 and only 300 pieces were manufactured. With its distinct and instantly recognizable design, among others the 'Lobster' steel bracelet, the Espada brought a new sense of style and substance to the world of chronographs, becoming a collectible icon.
When the El Primero automatic chronograph calibre was first announced in 1969, it took the world of watchmaking by storm. It was the first automatic chronograph movement and brought forth a set of distinctive features, which have allowed it to stand the test of time and remain an exceptional movement half a century on: a high frequency of 36’000 vph, a column-wheel chronograph mechanism, and an automatic winding system that delivers 50 hours of power reserve.
Furthermore, the El Primero made headlines back in 1970, when it took part in Zenith’s “Operation Sky”. This extreme test consisted of strapping the watch to an Air France Boeing 707’s landing gear on a flight from Paris to New York to test its resistance to external aggressions such as drastic temperature fluctuations, wind force and changing air pressure. Upon landing, the watch was still functioning perfectly. This daring feat was a testament to the confidence those who had tirelessly worked on the El Primero calibre held, as well as tangible proof that a mechanical movement was superior to the nascent quartz movements of the time, which couldn’t have stood the temperature differences endured by the watch during the flight.
This featured example is really a premium timepiece in an extremely well preserved original condition. It comes as a 'Full Set' (Original guarantee, box, manual and invoice), which is almost impossible to find and thus very collectible !
THE STORY
Though Zenith is most well known for its impressive in-house El Primero chronograph calibers, the brand’s positioning as a master of accuracy predated the mighty El by a fair margin. In 1948, the brand’s Calibre 135 became a new industry benchmark of sorts, achieving chronometer specification and winning a string of over 200 awards.
Most notably, the hand-wound 19-jewel caliber was awarded 5 consecutive Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry prizes from 1950 to 1954—a winning streak previously unheard of in such a contested competition. Evolving over three iterations, the caliber remained in Zenith’s production line consistently through until 1962.
The high-beat El Primero chronograph caliber is a bit of a legend in the industry, and the one that strongly contest the title of first automatic chronograph in existence. That part aside, the first El Primero faced a fascinating bit of torture testing in 1970, as Zenith strapped a watch fitted with this new caliber to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 for Air France flight AF015 before it crossed the Atlantic Ocean between Paris and New York.
Facing temperatures of -62 Celsius at an altitude of 10,000 feet, thewatch survived shockingly unscathed, and other than the time change that obviously couldn’t be accounted for, the chronograph maintained its accuracy within a second by the time it finished its journey.
Zenith lays claim to having opened the first watchmaking “manufacture”, all the way back in 1865. Georges Favre-Jacot decided that rather than sticking to the traditional method of watchmaking of the period—where movement makers would have their own atelier somewhere, dial makers, somewhere else, case makers somewhere else, and so on—he decided the most logical approach would be to house all of these specialized workers in a single facility.
Every watch brand loves to hang their hat on some sort of celebrity connection, however the fact that Mahatma Gandhi carried a Zenith pocket watch is all kinds of cool. Gandhi carried and used the pocket watch (fitted with an alarm complication) for years, and though it was stolen from him in the late ‘40s, it returned to him not much later when the thief was surprisingly overcome with guilt.
Before passing away, Gandhi gifted the pocket watch to his granddaughter, and in 2009 the watch was sold via a well known auction house for a paltry sum of 1.8M USD.
THE DATA
- Maker: Zenith
- Model: Espada
- Reference: 01.0040.418
- Case N°: 422XX
- Year: 1974
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x45x16mm
- Caliber: In House Zenith 3019 PHF
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Zenith steel 'Lobster'
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Original Zenith box, guarantee and owner's manual
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in top condition. The case and steel bracelet are extremely well preserved with its angles still sharp. The dial and the réhaut are in mint condition with the lume present. It is important to notice the immaculate condition of the original dial and réhaut because 99% of the Espada's subdials and especially the réhaut got seriously dammaged by the time and these original parts are, 48 years later, absolutely impossible to find.
All parts are original, among others the 'Plastic' guarantee specific to this model.
This is a very collectible and sought after complicated timepiece and this model was manufactured only in 1973 and 1974, with a total production of only 500 pieces !
It has a sporty and virile presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday wear.
1990' Chopard 'Tonneau' Power Reserve automatic Yellow Gold with box - Ref. 2248
Sold out
A fine and elegant Chopard 'manufacture'
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This impressive and refined timepiece features all the characteristics of elegance and watchmaking savoir-faire. The perfect balance of the silver 'guilloché' dial displays the special functions of the automatic extra-flat movement; Power reserve and circular date. The generous 'Tonneau' shaped solid gold cases has a very nice presence on the wrist. Important details like the Bréguet blued steel hands, guilloché dial, sapphire on the crown, very flat 'two-stepped' case with sapphire crystal, gives an unrivalled touch to this very well preserved timepiece.
THE STORY
Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer from Sonvilier, quickly conquered Switzerland and the world at the age of 24. The artisan watchmaker created works of art with innovative designs, which early on helped him export to such illustrious places like the court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Qualities like precision and reliability were very sought-after characteristics in watches, dating all the way back to the 19th century. With unique chronometers and pocket watches, Louis-Ulysse Chopard aimed to fulfill and exceed these "desires".
Chopard is one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewelry company. Karl-Friedrich, who managed the men's collections, developed sports watches during the 1980s and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, which produces the L.U.C movements, in the 1990s.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chopard
- Model: Tonneau 'Power Reserve'
- Reference: 2248
- Case N°: 3528XX
- Year: 1990'
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38x7mm
- Caliber: Chopard 9644 automatic
- Bracelet/Strap: New black strap with Chopard 18k solid gold buckle
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Chopard box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition and comes with its original Chopard box. The solid gold case and matching original gold buckle mounted on a new strap, is very well preserved. The silver guilloché dial with Bréguet hands is just mesmerising. This is a very elegant and sharp complicated watch. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and formal occasions.
This exclusive timepiece comes with it's original Chopard complete box.
2000 Patek Philippe '10 Days' Yellow Gold Limited edition - Full Set - Ref. 5100J-001
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A large and very rare yellow gold Patek Philippe Limited edition with a 10 Days power reserve
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Patek Philippe unveiled a limited edition series of 3,000 watches under the reference 5100 in 2000. 1,500 pieces were made in 18k yellow gold, 300 pieces in platinum, 450 pieces in 18k white gold and finally 750 in 18k pink gold. The case back of the watch is engraved 'Year 2000' as it is a commemorative piece to celebrate the arrival of the new millennium. Reference 5100 is historically significant in the development of Patek Philippe complicated wristwatches. Incorporating dual main spring barrels, it is the first wristwatch ever made by the company to feature a 10 days power reserve.
This particular example has a perfect white dial, as well as solid gold numerals and daupnine hands. It has a comfortable yet glamorous presence on the wrist, as the solidly 'Manta Ray' gold case commands attention. The watch comes as a 'Full Set', meaning that you get absolutely all the original papers and box that were delivered by Patek Philippe with this historical watch in the year 2000.
THE STORY
1839: Antoine Patek, a Polish businessman, and François Czapek, a Czech watchmaker, established Patek, Czapek & Cie in Geneva.
1851: Jean-Adrien Philippe became a partner in the company he had joined in 1844. Following the departure of François Czapek, it was renamed Patek Philippe & Cie.
1932: Dialmakers Charles and Jean Stern bought the company, which became Patek Philippe SA. It still belongs to the Stern family.
Patek Philippe belongs to the very small circle of historical Fine Watch brands. Established in 1839, since 1932 it has been in the hands of the Stern family. From its earliest days, Patek Philippe showed a remarkable capacity for innovation and excelled in the artisanship required to create a beautiful watch. This dual expertise was backed by sharp business acumen. Patek Philippe quickly became a favourite among a wealthy international clientele who commissioned bespoke watches from the Manufacture. One of these discerning patrons, the American financier Henry Graves, took delivery in 1934 of a pocket watch with 24 complications, a record for that era.
Placing quality uppermost, for many years Patek Philippe had its watches certified by the Poinçon de Genève. In 2009 it instead created its own standard of quality, the Patek Philippe Seal, which applies to every stage from the manufacturing to the sale of the watch. Since the mid-2000s, Patek Philippe has dominated the auction market. The Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva holds one of the richest private collections of timepieces in the world.
Based in Geneva but with production sites spread throughout the Arc Jurassien, Patek Philippe is renowned for its command of complications, in particular striking watches. While perpetuating traditional watchmaking skills, it also embraces new technologies, such as silicon. Accordingly, in 2011 Patek Philippe endowed a research chair in micro- and nanotechnologies at the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne.
THE DATA
- Maker: Patek Philippe
- Model: '10 Days' 200 Years anniversary - 1.500 Pieces limited edition
- Reference: 5100J-001
- Case N°: 4123XXX
- Year: 2000
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x36x12mm (Without lugs)
- Caliber: 28-20 REC 10J PS IRM
- Bracelet/Strap: Patek Philippe Black aligator & Original solid 18K pinbuckle
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: Patek Philippe box + Certificate of origin + Chronometer, etc...
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the unusual and legendary design of this flawless wristwatch called 'Manta Ray', the rarity and of course the spectacular 10 Days 'Power reserve' movement visible through the sapphire crystal. The yellow gold large case gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This watch can be worn everyday and for more formal occasions.
The dial of this reference 5100 has applied solid gold numbers , with a well-balanced and simple layout. The case, crystal and buckle doesn't show any scratches. The crown is stamped with the Patek Calatrava Cross.
This timepiece is signed Patek Philippe on the dial, case, movement and on the 18k solid gold pin buckle.
The precision of the timepiece is exceptionnal, as shown on the timegrapher it has 0 second variation/day.
The watch comes with its original box and absolutely all papers, certificates and accessories, just as shown on the photo.
1950' Jaeger-leCoultre 'Oversized' 37mm Powermatic 'Réserve de Marche' - Ref. E 163
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A large and rare Jaeger-leCoultre with power reserve.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Jaeger-leCoultre Powerwind / Powermatic came in several references, cases, sizes and dials, mostly for the US market, which can be distinguished by their smaller size and the LeCoultre signature on the dial. Here, we are proud to offer an European E 163 in a rare 'Oversized' 37 mm case. The case is in great sharp condition, unpolished, the dial has aquired with the time a beautiful even patina that gives to this timepiece an exclusive and unique touch.
Jaeger-leCoultre introduced their first “bumper” automatic movement - the Calibre 476 - in 1946. And the updated Calibre 481 followed just two years later. Now the interesting point is that the Cal481 wasn’t a mere upgrade, it introduced a completely new complication: the power-reserve indication.
Positioned at 12 o’clock a rotating disk displayed the remaining hours of power reserve and defined a new collection for Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Powermatic. Because an automatic watch winds infinitely this was the first time people could know about the remaining power left in the mainspring.
THE STORY
Not all firms in the watchmaking field have been able to stand the test of time quite like Jaeger-leCoultre, also known as the "watchmaker's watchmaker". Founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre and originally named only LeCoultre, the company provided watchmaking's top brands, such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the high-grade, unfinished movements with which they completed their watches.
In the early 1900s, Cartier's watch supplier Edmond Jaeger sought out Antoine LeCoultre's help in creating the wotld's thinnest watches. The collaboration resulted in the manufacturing of Cartier's earliest Tank and Santos watches, all housed with LeCoultre movements. The team decided to merge in 1937, and the firm officially became the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand by which collectors know it today. Some of the firm's most significant and important timepieces include the Reverso, the Ados travel clock, the Memovox, the Atmos clock and, among modern watches, their Master Complications.
THE DATA
- Maker: Jaeger-leCoultre
- Model: Powermatic 'Réserve de marche', 'Power reserve'
- Reference: E 163
- Case N°: 5733XX
- Year: 1950'
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37x45x11mm
- Caliber: 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Havana leather
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This wristwatch is in overall very good untouched original condition. This is a great timepiece, stylish, refined and with a lot of personality. The design is timeless, a classical.
The watch comes with a new havana leather strap.
It has a nice presence on the wrist with it's 37mm case an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
2007 Jaeger-leCoultre Reverso 'Réserve de Marche' Pink Gold - Ref. 270.2.13 Q2702420
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A large and elegant pink gold reverso with power reserve. FULL SET
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Jaeger-leCoultre Reverso has become one of the most iconic and elegant watch design since its launch about 100 years ago. This particular large model is made of solid pink gold and features a power reserve indicator. The Reverso was created to withstand the rigours of polo matches. Its subtle Art Deco lines and unique, pioneering reversable case have made it one of the world’s most recognisable watches. The Reverso showcases our craftsmanship at its most creative, inventive and innovative and has housed more than 50 different calibres. It has been an exceptional canvas for creativity; fiercely original, defiantly distinctive and always extraordinary.
Since its creation in 1931, Reverso has created many timeless stories, establishing it as the icon of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
THE STORY
Not all firms in the watchmaking field have been able to stand the test of time quite like Jaeger-leCoultre, also known as the "watchmaker's watchmaker". Founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre and originally named only LeCoultre, the company provided watchmaking's top brands, such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the high-grade, unfinished movements with which they completed their watches.
In the early 1900s, Cartier's watch supplier Edmond Jaeger sought out Antoine LeCoultre's help in creating the wotld's thinnest watches. The collaboration resulted in the manufacturing of Cartier's earliest Tank and Santos watches, all housed with LeCoultre movements. The team decided to merge in 1937, and the firm officially became the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand by which collectors know it today. Some of the firm's most significant and important timepieces include the Reverso, the Ados travel clock, the Memovox, the Atmos clock and, among modern watches, their Master Complications.
THE DATA
- Maker: Jaeger-leCoultre
- Model: Reverso 'Réserve de marche' or 'Power reserve'
- Reference: 270.2.13 Q2702420
- Case N°: 2182XXX
- Year: 2007
- Material: Solid Pink Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 26x42x10mm
- Caliber: In House Jaeger-leCoultre manual winding
- Bracelet/Strap: Havana aligator with the original solid gold JLC folding clasp
- Box/Papers: Original box, guarantee and owner's manual
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This wristwatch is in overall very good condition with some minor scratches, the time is accurate. This is a great timepiece, stylish, refined and a lot of personality. The design is timeless, a classical.
This timepiece is sold as a 'Full Set', meaning that you get the original box, owner's manual and guarantee.
The watch comes with a new havana aligator strap with its original 18k solid gold Jaeger-leCoultre folding clasp.
It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax Fat Lugs 'Cornes Or' - Ref. 22261
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An extremely rare and spectacular early Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market.
This version, from 1943 is not only exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but especially because of it's striking rare case combining solid 18k red gold lugs (Cornes Or) and stainless steel case.
A representation of this 'Cornes Or' particular model is represented in the Universal Genève archives, reproduced page 361 in the famous Pietro Sala's book ' Universal Watch Genève'.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example offers all the features a collector would dream of; An extremely rare version made out of solid red gold and steel with long correctors pushers, the original and very particular 'drop indexes' dial and an overall great condition for a 75 years old timepiece.
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy
Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. From 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The immaculate black glossy dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it neatly matches the tone of the 18k solid gold case. Additionally, the 38mm size, combined with its thinness, makes for a very modern and comfortable watch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax Fat Lugs 'Cornes Or'
- Reference: 22261
- Case N°: 947xxx
- Year: 1943
- Material: Solid 18k Red Gold & Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligatorleather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid gold & steel case is well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a rare vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist due to the large lugs and the protruding pushers, perfect for every situation.
1945 Universal Geneve Calendar - Ref. 11305
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An incredibly well preserved triple quantieme.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Calendar is a quintessential complicated watch from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and very curved spider handles, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This particular model boasts a striking 35mm case with it's original dial, the exactly same combination as in the Universal Genève archives.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Calendar range of complicated watches was presented for the first time on the 21 augustus 1943 in Geneva and quickly became a hit. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches such as this Calendar with three subsidiary dials, moonphase and gold hands. This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Calendar Moonphase 18k Yellow Gold
- Reference: 11305
- Case N°: 1186xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35x43x10mm
- Caliber: In House UG 291
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age. The 18k solid gold case is extremely well preserved and has never been repolished. The champagne unrefinished dial is stunning. This is a great vintage , elegant and rare. Witness of an era with it's curved spider lugs, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily andfor all occasions.
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Fat Lugs' - Ref. 22259
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A rare and fine Triple-Quantième iconic watch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1943 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but also because it is in a very good condition with a perfect original dial.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax (Aka 'Fat Lugs')
- Reference: 22259
- Case N°: 10668XX
- Year: 1943
- Material: Stainless Steel 'Enversteel'
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35x42x12mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a 'Like new' preserved original dial, unscratched crystal, the 'Sword' hands and case are also in great condition, all angles are very sharp.
This is a great and rare timepiece, elegant and and highly collectible.
A nice presence on the wrist with its 35mm case and 'Fat Lugs', perfect for casual or formal wear.
1977 Omega Speedmaster Professional Quartz - FULL SET - Ref. 186.0004
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A fine and rare Omega Speedmaster Professional with its original box & papers.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This is the only Speedmaster to be produced with a quartz movement in a Moonwatch Professional case. This was model ST 186.0004 nicknamed LCD Moonwatch by the community. Unnumbered, the production ran only over a year and a half period, in the late seventies, from 1977 to 1979.
The cal. 1620, developed by Omega and SSIH (later to become SMH). Although it has only basic functions by today’s standards, it is neverthless still a very accurate watch, capable of 0.15 seconds per day, or 5 seconds per month.
This is better than a lot of quartz watches available even now. The very good accuracy is due to the high quality quartz resonator used, manufactured in-house by SSIH. You can find more information on this rare chronograph here: https://www.omegalcdspeedmaster.com/
This particular LCD Moonwatch is extremely well preserved, never polished and without noticeable scratches furthermore it comes as a 'Full Set' with its original box & guarantee, a collectors must have !
THE STORY
The Olympic Games – where millions of fans are eager for the thrills and spills of competition sport. Here the supreme arbiter is timekeeping and It must not fail, falter or fumble. Things have truly changed since 1932 when, for the first time, Omega timed the Olympic Games in Los Angeles.
In 1952, responding inventively to the demands of constantly improving sports performance, Omega pioneered the development of electronically assisted sports timekeeping.
Behind the scenes at the Olympic games, a squad of electronics engineers supervised the complex and extremely refined timekeeping equipment. Tailored to individual Olympic disciplines, the equipment was designed to display both the intermediate and final times directly to television screens across across the world to 1/100th of a second; the degree of precision prescribed by the organizing committee for the Games. Omega technicians themselves are monitored performances to 1/1000th of a second!
Everyone appreciated the spectacular mastery of quartz electronic precision during the Olympic games. It stands to reason that a similar commitment to this sophisticated technology came about in the form of a personal, wrist-worn, quartz-piloted instrument: the Omega digital watch.
In 1974, Omega released a series of Speedmasters signed ‘Speedsonic’ (not Speedmaster) and being significantly water resistant they came with Seamaster-signed case backs. The came with the calibre 1255, essentially the ESA 9162/9164 with a chronograph module added, and were designed by Max Hetzel who had previously worked for Bulova.
The Speedsonic is one of the few watches in the Speedmaster family to be certified as a Chronometer. The quartz models, released a few years after the introduction of the Speedsonic, certainly could have qualified but were never submitted for testing.In 1977 watches with the 1620 quartz calibre began to appear with the ref. ST 186.0004. These watches had a digital LCD display and were accurate to 5 seconds per month. They had the typical 1970s quartz digital watch look you’d expect of the period. Some versions were signed Speedmaster Professional Quartz (nicknamed the Pro Quartz), others simply Speedmaster Quartz. Omega produced eight variations of these watches in total, with differences in the shape of the case, gold plating and bracelet vs. strap.
Interestingly, Omega stopped producing the Speedmaster Quartz watches after only about 18 months.
THE DATA
- Maker: Omega
- Model: Speedmaster Professional Quartz (Aka 'LCD Moonwatch')
- Reference: 186.0004
- Year: 1977
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36,5x42,2x9mm
- Caliber: In House Omega 1620
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Omega stainless steel
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Omega box & Guarantee
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in near to mint condition. The case is extremely well preserved, the stainless steel strap in very long and not stretched. All parts are original and every function works properly.
This is a very unusual and collectible Omega Speedmaster that will draw the attention of watch enhousiasts for sure. This scarce chronograph comes with its original box and 1977 Omega guarantee.
It has a nice presence on the wrist with its 36,5mm case and steel bracelet, perfect for everyday wear.
1967 Bulova Accutron Astronaut (GMT) - Ref. 11305
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The watch chosen by the CIA for pilots of the fastest plane ever made.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Here is an extract from the letter written by Frank Murray (LtCol, USAF):
"The A-12 airplane first flew in april 1962; several years of developmental testing took place before the airplane flew its reconnaissance role in the far east. This airplane operates at speeds well above Mach 3 (2100 mph) at altitudes up to 90.000 feet.
The environmental conditions inside the cockpit saw temperatures as high as 140 degrees at end of cruise legs when the fuel remaining was insufficient to provide the needed heatsink for the airconditioning system.
Ordinary wristwatches worn by the pilots on the outside of their pressure suits were not holding up to these temperatures. A decision was made to try a unique type of watch in this setting. The Bulova Accutron Astronaut model held up to testing, so the CIA decided to furnish the Bulova watch to the CIA pilots flying the A-12.
The CIA provided each pilot with a new Bulova Astronaut watch. These watches became the property of the pilots and they stayed with the pilots whan the program ended in mid 1968."
THE STORY
The Accutron movement developped by Bulova has no balance or balance spring, it uses a tuning fork oscillator, driven by a transistor controlled circuit. The Accutron 214 movement vibrates at 360 Hz and uses a button-cell battery. This was at the time a wonder of miniaturization and micro-engineering, with parts so fine that they are invisible to the naked eye. Because they would run on electric power with no requirement of a mainspring made them highly suitable for use in aerospace applications.
THE DATA
- Maker: Bulova
- Model: Accutron Cosmonaut (GMT)
- Reference: 11305
- Case N°: D347xx - M7
- Year: 1967
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x40x14mm
- Caliber: In House Accutron 214
- Bracelet/Strap: Black Nylon NATO
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Bulova box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibly good condition for its age. The impressive 38mm Stainless Steel case is extremely well preserved. The black unrefinished dial is stunning. This is a great vintage legendary watch featuring a very useful second time hand and a 24Hrs rotating bezel. It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1990s Universal Geneve Jump Hour - Ref. 825.125
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A very sophisticated and elegant wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular watch has a very special and elegant combination, this incredibly well preserved watch has never been repolished and the dial is original and perfect. The condition and the scarce model make it truly a collector's timepiece. A Jump Hour movements is a sophistication in horology, this watch comes with it's original guarantee and box.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance, refinement and complication.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Jump hour
- Reference: 825.125
- Case N°: 4121xxx
- Year: 1990s
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 27x43x8mm
- Caliber: In House UG 25 Manual wound
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: Box and Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition. The stainless steel case is well preserved, like new, and has never been repolished. The unrefinished black dial with silver numbers and matching hands is dashing. This is a great sophisicated wristwatch, elegant and rare. The watch has it's original Universal Genève pinbuckle and comes with its original box and papers. It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1945 Universal Geneve Oversized Tri-Compax - Ref. 12552
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An extremely well preserved and spectacular Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1945 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first year of the Tri-Compax production, but especially because of it's striking oversized 37mm untouched gold case.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example offers all the features a collector would dream of; A classic and oversized version made out of solid yellow gold, the original 'gold indexes' dial and an overall great condition for a 75 years old timepiece.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax
- Reference: 12552
- Case N°: 1129xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 287
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid yellow gold is extremely well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear.
1967 Breitling Superocéan Oversized 43mm 'Slow Motion' MK1 + Papers - Ref. 2005
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A Fine and Rare chronograph with its original papers.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
When launched in 1964, this new SuperOcean chronograph (Ref. 2005) impresses customers with its technical complexity elegantly balanced by its clean dial design without any sub-dials and a bold 43mm stainless steel case, with the main purpose being to ensure the highest legibility possible.
The Superocéan 'Slow Motion' ref. 2005 is one of the most iconic and sought-after Breitling watches ever, and this example comes with its original papers guarantee and leaflet, which is extremely rare.
This chronograph dates to 1967, and it has a beautiful overall aesthetic. The movement features a "WOG" engraving, indicating it was destined for the U.S. market. WOG was the U.S. import mark for Breitling and Wakmann Watch Co., the U.S. importer for Breitling at the time.
THE STORY
Building on the success of the first SuperOcean chronograph (Ref. 807), Willy Breitling wishes to advance the technical side of its divers’ watch and offer a new chronograph that enables easy and safe reading of the diving duration, even at the deepest depths of the ocean.
As a minute recorder is too small and not easy to read when under the surface of the water, Willy Breitling decides to use the main chronograph hand to indicate the diving duration. For this, Breitling develops a unique chronograph caliber, called “Slow Motion” that enables the chronograph hand to make one revolution per hour instead of one per minute. The wearer can therefore directly read the diving duration with the chronograph hand and the minute track on the dial without having to look for the minute recorder. However, this makes it nearly impossible to tell at a glance if the chronograph is running or not as the chronograph hand moves too slowly. This can be critical during a dive!
Willy Breitling finds a technical solution to this issue and develops a running indicator, located at 6 o’clock. When the chronograph is launched, this running indicator turns to a yellow disc – it becomes black with a small yellow dot when the chronograph is on hold and returns to an all-black circle when the chronograph is reset and stopped. With this smart technical feature, there is no longer a risk of forgetting that the chronograph is not running under the water.
THE DATA
- Maker: Breitling
- Model: Superocéan 'Slow Motion'
- Reference: 2005
- Case N°: 10767XX
- Year: 1967
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 43x48x15mm
- Caliber: Manually wound Breitling (Modified Venus 188)
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Breitling box + Original 1967 Breitling guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in very well preserved condition, unpolished, all the angles remained sharp. The matching original guarantee and leaflet makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched, the original lume is complete. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1990s IWC Ingenieur Chrono Alarm - Full Set 'NEW OLD STOCK' - Ref. 3805
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A very elegant and sporty iconic wristwatch
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The present IWC is in my opinion the most elegant and virile sport watch ever made. This particular example is new, with its original box and blank guarantee. The «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» another variation of the Genta theme was launched in 1991, this time adding chronograph as well as alarm complications to the Ingenieur line. Thanks to its diameter of 34 mm and its military looking main dial, the «Chrono Alarm» gave a more adult impression than the prior 'Chronograph' (Ref. 3734) .Like its sibling, «Ingenieur Chronograph», the «Chrono Alarm» is equipped with a meca-quartz movement belonging to the calibre 630, the smallest movement of its category ever manufactured. These hybrid calibres were produced by Jaeger-Le Coultre for IWC and combined quarz-controlled stepping motors with a mechanically driven chronograph (more than 250 moving parts). In the case of the Chrono Alarm's calibre 633, it was furthermore enhanced with an alarm function. This horology marvel is among others water resistant to 3 atm and amagnetic to 4,800 A/m (specificity of the 'Ingenieur' line).
These days, the «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» belongs to the most popular models of the Ingenieur line and regarded as a collector's item. The main reason is of course its calibre 633 which belongs the technical marvels among the quartz movements used by IWC.
THE STORY
With a clear focus on technology and development, the Swiss watch manufacturer "International Watch Company" (IWC Schaffhausen) has been producing timepieces of lasting value since 1868. The company has gained international reputation based on a passion for innovative solutions and technical ingenuity. One of the world's leading brands in the luxury watch segment, IWC crafts masterpieces of haute horlogerie at their finest, combining high precision with design.
THE DATA
- Maker: IWC (International Watch Company)
- Model: Ingenieur Chrono Alarm
- Reference: 3805
- Case N°: 2525xxx
- Year: 1990s
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x40,5x9,5mm
- Caliber: IWC 633
- Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel
- Lug width: N/A
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers (Blank unused guarantee)
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the 'New Old Stock' condition of this wristwatch coming with its box and unused guarantee. The brushed steel case and bracelet gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This chronographhas a nice presence on the wrist and can be worn everyday, for sporting activities and even for more formal occasions.
1955 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Panda Dial' Full Set - Ref. 22297 3
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1955 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it has the most desirable 'Panda' pristine original dial, but especially because it features the extremely rare small round push-buttons, as stated by the famous expert Oswaldo Patrizzi in the Antiquorum catalogue. Another scarce characteristic: This chronograph comes with it's original papers and box, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example shows off all the elements that have made the Tri-Compax a modern classic, including the beautifully composed dial. The shape of the hands is highly characteristic of Universal Genève, and there’s just enough color in the red tip of the date hand, to give the watch some subtle but unmistakable zip. A great example of a classic complicated watch in very hard-to-find condition, this is not one you want to miss.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax 'Panda'
- Reference: 22297 3
- Case N°: 1748xxx
- Year: 1955
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x42x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a pristine original dial and a full set of indexes with complete lume, the hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition. This is a great extremely rare triple-quantième chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every situation.
1947 Vulcain Cricket MK1 'The President's Watch'
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A fine and extremely well preserved iconic wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
In 1947 Vulcain launched the first ever mechanical alarm movement, which soon achieved worldwide fame. The legendary Cricket calibre took flight before finding its place in the history books as “The Presidents’ Watch”. American heads of state Dwight Eisenhower, Harry Trumann, Richard Nixon and Lyndon Johnson all wore a Vulcain on their wrist, a fact that earned the brand its prestigious reputation. But the technical qualities of Vulcain watches also appealed to explorers and adventurers. From the 1950s onwards, the brand in Le Locle was to partner famous mountaineering and maritime expeditions.
This particular Vulcain Cricket is in 'Museum Condition', the overall condition is stunning, 100% original and working like when it was manufactured 73 years ago !
THE STORY
Vulcain’s history started in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1858 when the two brothers Ditisheim founded their workshop for high-end pocket watches. Their exquisite work not only earned them several World Fair medals, but also created a need for a brand name that they could use to sell their products all over the world. In 1898 they adopted the name Vulcain. This is the French name for the Roman god Vulcan, ruler of fire and volcanoes, and often connected to gold- and blacksmiths.
It was Robert Ditisheim, one of the brother’s son, who took on the challenge of creating the first alarm wristwatch. An interesting fact about the Cricket was that its development started in 1942, in the midst of WWII. This almost makes one wonder
whether its original purpose was military rather than civilian. The development took 5 years in which many obstacles had to be taken. The main challenge was to create an alarm that was loud enough. Vulcain achieved this by creating a mechanism where a hammer hits a membrane. This sound is then amplified by the double case back which acts as a resonance chamber. A designated barrel for the alarm function ensures that the alarm sounds for at least 20 seconds when fully wound. The name Cricket comes from the sound that the alarm makes; quite similar to that of the little insect that shares the same name.
The Cricket got a warm welcome once it was released. Especially in the United States it was embraced by the public. True fame came for the Cricket when the White House Press Photographer’s Association presented President Harry S. Truman with a Vulcain Cricket. President Truman was the first of three US Presidents that actively wore their Cricket, the others being President Dwight D. Eisenhower and President Lyndon B. Johnson. Johnson was even such a fan of the Cricket that during his presidency he gave about 200 Cricket’s away as presents.
THE DATA
- Maker: Vulcain
- Model: Cricket MK1
- Reference: N/A
- Year: 1947
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x43x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House Vulcain 120
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredible condition. The unpolished case is very well preserved, and the original two-tone dial with original lume present looks great. This is a fine classic timepiece, elegant and convenient, perfect for everyday wear.
1991 IWC Ingenieur Chrono Alarm - FULL SET - NEW OLD STOCK - Ref. 3805
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A very elegant and sporty iconic wristwatch
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The present IWC is in my opinion the most elegant and virile sport watch ever made. This particular example is new, with its original box and blank guarantee. The «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» another variation of the Genta theme was launched in 1991, this time adding chronograph as well as alarm complications to the Ingenieur line. Thanks to its diameter of 34 mm and its military looking main dial, the «Chrono Alarm» gave a more adult impression than the prior 'Chronograph' (Ref. 3734) .Like its sibling, «Ingenieur Chronograph», the «Chrono Alarm» is equipped with a meca-quartz movement belonging to the calibre 630, the smallest movement of its category ever manufactured. These hybrid calibres were produced by Jaeger-Le Coultre for IWC and combined quarz-controlled stepping motors with a mechanically driven chronograph (more than 250 moving parts). In the case of the Chrono Alarm's calibre 633, it was furthermore enhanced with an alarm function. This horology marvel is among others water resistant to 3 atm and amagnetic to 4,800 A/m (specificity of the 'Ingenieur' line).
These days, the «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» belongs to the most popular models of the Ingenieur line and regarded as a collector's item. The main reason is of course its calibre 633 which belongs the technical marvels among the quartz movements used by IWC.
THE STORY
With a clear focus on technology and development, the Swiss watch manufacturer "International Watch Company" (IWC Schaffhausen) has been producing timepieces of lasting value since 1868. The company has gained international reputation based on a passion for innovative solutions and technical ingenuity. One of the world's leading brands in the luxury watch segment, IWC crafts masterpieces of haute horlogerie at their finest, combining high precision with design.
THE DATA
- Maker: IWC (International Watch Company)
- Model: Ingenieur Chrono Alarm
- Reference: 3805
- Case N°: 25311xx
- Year: 1991
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x40,5x9,5mm
- Caliber: IWC 633
- Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel
- Lug width: N/A
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers (Blank unused guarantee)
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the 'New Old Stock' condition of this wristwatch, unpolished of course, the case has all its angles sharp and polished where they are supposed to be. This chronograph comes with its original box and unused guarantee. The brushed steel case and bracelet gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This chronograph has a nice presence on the wrist and can be worn everyday, for sporting activities and for more formal occasions.
1990' Chopard 'Tonneau' Power Reserve White Gold + Box - Ref. 16/2248
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A fine and elegant Chopard 'manufacture' in white gold
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This impressive and refined timepiece features all the characteristics of elegance and watchmaking savoir-faire. The perfect balance of the silver 'guilloché' dial displays the special functions of the automatic extra-flat movement; Power reserve and circular date. The generous 'Tonneau' shaped solid gold case has a very nice presence on the wrist. Important details like the Bréguet blued steel hands, guilloché dial, sapphire on the crown, very flat 'two-stepped' case with sapphire crystal, gives an unrivalled touch to this very well preserved timepiece.
THE STORY
Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer from Sonvilier, quickly conquered Switzerland and the world at the age of 24. The artisan watchmaker created works of art with innovative designs, which early on helped him export to such illustrious places like the court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Qualities like precision and reliability were very sought-after characteristics in watches, dating all the way back to the 19th century. With unique chronometers and pocket watches, Louis-Ulysse Chopard aimed to fulfill and exceed these "desires".
Chopard is one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewelry company. Karl-Friedrich, who managed the men's collections, developed sports watches during the 1980s and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, which produces the L.U.C movements, in the 1990s.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chopard
- Model: Tonneau 'Power Reserve'
- Reference: 16/2248
- Case N°: 4115xx
- Year: 1990'
- Material: Solid 18k Wite Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38x7mm
- Caliber: Chopard 9644 automatic
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather with Chopard 18k solid gold pinbuckle
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Chopard box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition and comes with its original Chopard box. The solid gold case and matching original gold buckle mounted on a new strap, is very well preserved. The silver guilloché dial with Bréguet hands is just mesmerising. This is a very elegant and sharp complicated watch. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and formal occasions.
1964 Enicar Sherpa 'Super-Divette' MK1 - FULL SET - Ref. 144-35-01
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A Fine and Rare iconic watch with its original guarantee and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
In 1964 Enicar announced a new two crown dive watch, based on the automatic AR1145 calibre movement. Dr Hans Hass was a well-known researcher who featured in advertising using the single crown Enicar diver models. Since the Divette was their single crown brand, Enicar used the brand Super Divette for the two crown model.
The crown at 2hrs is for adjusting the internal diving countdown disc.
This particular, extremely well preserved model comes with its original box and guarantee from 1964. All parts are original, even the perfect unfindable crystal.
THE STORY
1854: In early 19th century, the small towns in northwest region of Switzerland such as La Chaux-de-Fonds and Granges, became the centers of Swiss watchmaking. At that time, Racine was a well-known family of watchmaking based in Granges.
1914: Founder Ariste Racine reversed his last name to establish the brand “Enicar”. Ever since, he devoted himself to produce high quality timepieces, among of few, his innovated readable pocket watches, were most-loved by European soldiers and railway crews during WWI.
1930: The new factory set up in Bienne was a significant move that enabled the growth of Enicar’s avant-garde watchmaking excellence. With its name widely spread across European countries, the automatic waterproof collection successfully made its debut to the markets.
1931: Late 30s – 50s were the period of great change. Enicar created a series of Sherpa watches: Dive, Divette and Mini-dive with endurable designs that can live up to extreme harsh environment - corrosive seawater, high pressures, and rapid temperature changes.
1946: With pioneering vision, Enicar’s mechanical watches never ceased to lead the markets with trends. During the 40s, the brand continued to grow with an aim to explore new boundaries. The first chronograph model appeared for the first time in the market marked a prominent step to success.
1951: Enicar took a great step forward with the design of Sherpa jet watches, which were designated by US Air Force during WWII. After war period, Sherpa Collection entered Asian market with gusto to offer Asians both the advanced complications in aviation timing and later on, the mountaineering timing. Today, Sherpa Collection still remains as one of the most remarkable models.
1955: In the early 50s, Enicar received the first certification of accuracy from the renowned Neuchâtel Observatory - the forerunner of C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). The certificate was a symbol of highest precision and reliability.
1956: The 1956 Swiss Expedition set out to conquer successfully the summit of Mount Everest and the Himalayan Ranges, was equipped with Enicar chronometers which had brought the world’s acclaim after the ascent. One of the members, Ernst Reiss, credited the watch for its exceptional precision in extreme weather conditions. Meanwhile, the waterproof Ultrasonic dive watch – Sea Pearl was introduced.
1957: Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer was installed on the rudder of Mayflower II – the replica of 17th century Mayflower. Though immersed into seawater for the 50-day Atlantic voyage, the watch was proved to run with excellent performance in face of harsh conditions, as credited by the ship Captain Alan Villiers.
1958: The British Formula One Champion Stiring Moss took Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer as the reliable timekeeper at his trials. Struck by exceptional performance, the Sherpa varieties were later on, highly acclaimed by Australian World Tennis Champion Ken Rosewall and British Motorcycle Racing Champion Geoff Duke.
1960: An exhibition illustrating the daily life of Lei Feng, the China's people comrade, showcases the accessories including his Enicar watch - all in his Memorial Hall.
1962: Evolving beyond the traditional confines of watchmaking, Enicar unveiled the latest model – Supertest that featured Rubyrotor movement with 30 jewels. The simplicity of the system guaranteed high precision and kept correct time to the second.
1970: Late 60s to 70s were the world of quartz movements. Enicar introduced quartz watches featuring Beta 21 movement developed by the renowned Centre Eletronique Horloger in Switzerland and had won “The Watch of Precision”.
1993: In 1993, Sotheby’s had a large auction of Soviet space ware, of which the antiques Enicar vintage models firstly became a spectacular part. These timepieces were a splendid collection owned by Sergey Korolyov, the eminent Soviet rocket engineer during 50s – 60s.
1994: Enicar was selected as the official watch sponsor for the 12th Asian Games in Hiroshima, Japan. In 1996, Enicar also became the official gift sponsor for the Chinese delegations in the 26th Atlanta Olympic Games.
THE DATA
- Maker: Enicar
- Model: Sherpa 'Super-Divette'
- Reference: 144-35-01
- Case N°: 7312XX
- Year: 1964
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x44x14mm
- Caliber: Enicar AR1145
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Enicar box & guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This iconic diving watch is in very well preserved condition, the serial number is clear and visible and the black dial is flawless. The matching original guarantee and box makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1965 Glycine Airman (First generation) Vintage Vietnam Era - Ref. 314050
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The iconic watch, chosen by the U.S. Fighting pilots during the Vietnam war.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Glycine’s first 24-hour watch was developed and launched in the USA. In the 1950s a new model was developed and presented within four months. At first there was only the white version with pencil hands and the PM/AM model. It was a success in the USA and further feedback provided the necessary adjustments to turn it into a world hit.
It is most likely that around 1955 the black version with the famous arrow hand was presented in Basel.
Rolex launched one of the first GMT watches with two hour hands in 1954. Glycine therefore was a trendsetter in the field of pilot watches. The Airman could display two time zones with just one hour hand and was therefore easily manufactured without extra costs for the consumer.
This background gives us a better understanding as to why this small watch, displaying
only 24 hours, was sold with tremendous success in a 12 hour dominated watch world. It was the world getting smaller. The civil airlines and their growing number of passengers demanded a modern watch that was equipped with:
-black 24-hour dial with luminous hands and markings for clear visibility
-rotating bezel for setting a second time zone
-hack second to synchronize time
-date display
-arrow hour hand
-automatic movement
-waterproof
It is very difficult to source one of these iconic watches undammaged with the hacking system working and 100% original, furthermore there were many fakes on the market (As displayed in one of the photos).
Therefore, I am very happy to offer here a superb example that is very well preserved, unpolished and with the hacking system operative.
THE STORY
Today the stately villa at the rue Frédéric-Ingold 5 in Biel Switzerland once again is the residence of part of the Glycine Watch company. The place is still suffused with the grandeur of the old watch age. The glycine (wisteria) is growing against its wall and the green GLYCINE-ALTUS markings are still against the façade. These words in themselves represent the first of many misty historical facts. Two watch companies, Montres Altus S.A. and Manufacture D’Horlogerie Glycine S.A. merged around 1960.
Why the name Altus was dropped to become a model name for a Glycine watch remains unclear.
In the 1920s, watches for the world’s rich and famous were made in this villa. During its early history Glycine became famous for its small movements in priceless ladies watches. Around 1931 Meylan, founder of Glycine in 1914, presented the world with a well functioning self-winding watch of his own invention. Together with his officially tested and past chronometer it was not enough to keep the depression from the door. Glycine, however, survived and was one of the few participants of the Basel Fair in 1938.
Charles Hertig Sr., owner of Glycine since 1953, made the company world famous with the Glycine Airman pilot watch that was launched in the same year.
In 1984 Hans Brechbühler took over the company from Charles Hertig Jr.. Hans’s daughter Katherina teamed up with her father in 1992. This combination had the right ingredients to relaunch the mechanical watch and ultimately the Airman in 1998.
In 2011 Katherina handed the company over to its new owner the Altus Uhren
Holding AG. Stephan Lack took over as CEO of Glycine Watch SA.
THE DATA
- Maker: Glycine
- Model: Airman (First Generation from 1960 to 1967)
- Reference: Pat. 314050
- Case N°: 6998XX
- Year: 1965
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36,5x46x12mm
- Caliber: Glycine Automatic (Base: A. Schild 1701)
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibly good condition for its age. The Stainless Steel case is extremely well preserved and unpolished with the angles still sharp, all parts are original.
The black original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage legendary watch featuring a very useful 24Hrs lockable rotating bezel and a hacking function.
It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Harry Truman' - Ref. 12551
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A rare and fine Triple-Quantième iconic watch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1943 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but also because it is the same model that was worn by the American president Harry Truman.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax (Aka 'Harry Truman')
- Reference: 12551
- Case N°: 1129XXX
- Year: 1943
- Material: Solid 18K Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x45x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 267
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a very well preserved original dial, unscratched crystal, the gold hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition, all angles are very sharp. There is absolutely no sign of corrosion on the movement.
This is a great and rare timepiece, elegant and and highly collectible.
A nice presence on the wrist with its 36mm case, perfect for casual or formal wear.
1981 Omega Equinoxe aka 'Reverso' - FULL SET - Ref. 186.0013
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An unusual and rare Omega with its original papers and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
There’s so much to say about this watch, so why not start by saying this: this particular model, the ‘Equinoxe’, was the world first watch to feature two watches on the same watch case. Yes, even before JLC did it, Omega produced this masterpiece only in 1981. This watch is as rare as it gets.
Analog and classic on one side, and digital and revolutionary on the other, this watch has it all.
Stylistically the watch owes quite a bit to the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso, but the bracelet is also reminiscent of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The bracelet is long and will fit most wrist, and has the correct clasp that still has the steel logo insert.
In the early 1980’s Omega were experimenting with making high end quartz watches like this. Ultimately it was not the right strategy, as they had to allow swatch to buy them to save them shortly afterwards. When new, this watch retailed for 1,500CHF (about £346), when you could buy a Automatic Seamaster with day and date, on a bracelet, for £120. This really was a premium watch. This scarce timepiece comes as a 'Full Set' (Original guarantee & box), which is extremely rare and collectible !
THE STORY
The Olympic Games – where millions of fans are eager for the thrills and spills of competition sport. Here the supreme arbiter is timekeeping and It must not fail, falter or fumble. Things have truly changed since 1932 when, for the first time, Omega timed the Olympic Games in Los Angeles.
In 1952, responding inventively to the demands of constantly improving sports performance, Omega pioneered the development of electronically assisted sports timekeeping.
Behind the scenes at the Olympic games, a squad of electronics engineers supervised the complex and extremely refined timekeeping equipment. Tailored to individual Olympic disciplines, the equipment was designed to display both the intermediate and final times directly to television screens across across the world to 1/100th of a second; the degree of precision prescribed by the organizing committee for the Games. Omega technicians themselves are monitored performances to 1/1000th of a second!
Everyone appreciated the spectacular mastery of quartz electronic precision during the Olympic games. It stands to reason that a similar commitment to this sophisticated technology came about in the form of a personal, wrist-worn, quartz-piloted instrument: the Omega digital watch.
Omega's rich history begins with its founder, Louis Brandt, who established the firm in 1848 in La Chaux de Fonds. In 1903, the company changed it's name to Omega, becoming the only watch brand in history to have been named after one its own movements. A full-fledged manufacturer of highly accurate, affordable and reliable watches, its sterling reputation enabled them to be chosen as the first watch company to time the Olympic Games beginning in 1932. Its continued focus on precision and reliability ultimately led their Speedmaster chronograph to be chosen by the NASA in 1965, the first watch worn on the moon.
THE DATA
- Maker: Omega
- Model: Equinoxe (Aka 'Reverso')
- Reference: 186.0013
- Year: 1981
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 27x38x9mm
- Caliber: In House Omega 1655
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Omega stainless steel (Up to a 20cm wrist)
- Lug width: N/A
- Box/Papers: Original Omega box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in top condition. The unpolished case is extremely well preserved, the stainless steel strap is very long and not stretched at all (Up to a 20cm wrist). All parts are original and every function works properly.
This is a very unusual and collectible Omega, manufactured only for 1 year it will draw the attention of watch enhousiasts for sure. This scarce chronograph comes with its original box and guarantee !
It has a presence on the wrist with its integrated steel bracelet, perfect for everyday wear.
1957 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Silver Linen' Full Set - Ref. 22297 3
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An extremely rare and spectacular Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1957 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it has a beautiful silver 'Linen' pristine original dial, but especially because it features the extremely rare small round push-buttons, as stated by the famous expert Oswaldo Patrizzi in the Antiquorum catalogue. Another scarce characteristic: This chronograph comes with it's original papers and box, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example shows off all the elements that have made the Tri-Compax a modern classic, including the beautifully composed dial. The shape of the hands is highly characteristic of Universal Genève, and there’s just enough color in the red tip of the date hand, to give the watch some subtle but unmistakable zip. A great example of a classic complicated watch in very hard-to-find condition, this is not one you want to miss.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax 'Silver Linen'
- Reference: 22297 3
- Case N°: 18966xx
- Year: 1957
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x42x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a pristine original dial and a full set of indexes with complete lume, the hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition. This is a great extremely rare triple-quantième chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every situation.
1952 Universal Geneve Rose Gold Climate-Proof Compax - Ref. 12299
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Climate-Proof Compax is one of the most desirable and collectible model from the brand. This solid rose gold version, from 1952 is not exceptionnal only by the fact that it was manufactured in very few examples, but especially because of it's beautiful overall condition. 'Climate-Proof' is an unusual weather-proof Compax featuring round small pushers and a inner dust cover.
THE STORY
Universal Genève was founded in LeLocle, Switzerland in 1894 and was known as "Universal Watch". Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why, from 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The silver '2 scales' dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it is printed in black, blue and red color.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs..
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Climate-Proof
- Reference: 12299
- Case N°: 1624xxx
- Year: 1952
- Material: Solid 18k Rose Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid rose gold is extremely well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear.
1990' Chopard 'Tonneau' Power Reserve automatic - Ref. 2248
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A fine and elegant Chopard 'manufacture'
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This impressive and refined timepiece features all the characteristics of elegance and watchmaking savoir-faire. The perfect balance of the silver 'guilloché' dial displays the special functions of the automatic extra-flat movement; Power reserve and circular date. The generous 'Tonneau' shaped solid gold cases has a very nice presence on the wrist. Important details like the Bréguet blued steel hands, guilloché dial, sapphire on the crown, very flat 'two-stepped' case with sapphire crystal, gives an unrivalled touch to this very well preserved timepiece.
THE STORY
Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer from Sonvilier, quickly conquered Switzerland and the world at the age of 24. The artisan watchmaker created works of art with innovative designs, which early on helped him export to such illustrious places like the court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Qualities like precision and reliability were very sought-after characteristics in watches, dating all the way back to the 19th century. With unique chronometers and pocket watches, Louis-Ulysse Chopard aimed to fulfill and exceed these "desires".
Chopard is one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewelry company. Karl-Friedrich, who managed the men's collections, developed sports watches during the 1980s and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, which produces the L.U.C movements, in the 1990s.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chopard
- Model: Tonneau 'Power Reserve'
- Reference: 2248
- Case N°: 3782xx
- Year: 1990'
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38x7mm
- Caliber: Chopard 9644 automatic
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Chopard black aligator with Chopard 18k solid gold buckle
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Chopard box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition and comes with its original Chopard box. The solid gold case and matching original gold buckle mounted on a new Chopard aligator strap, is verywell preserved. The silver guilloché dial with Bréguet hands is just mesmerising. This is a very elegant and sharp complicated watch. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and formal occasions.