Universal GenEve - Time only
1941 Universal Geneve - Oversized 'Talisman' for Hermès - Solid 18k rose gold - Ref 18501
An extremely rare and elegant watch, made especially for Hermès
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This isn't just any vintage Universal Genève. No, it's manufactured by them and retailed only by Hermès in France (as you can see on the advertisement). Hermès is the most famous and elegant French brand and they asked Universal Genève to manufacture their watches between 1936 and 1941.
This unpolished particular timepiece looks like new and the gold hallmark on the side of the case is crisp.
The watch comes with it's original Hermès advertisement.
THE STORY
Thierry Hermès was born in Krefeld, Germany, to a French father and a German mother. The family moved to France in 1828. In 1837, Hermès first established a harness workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, dedicated to serving European noblemen. He created high-quality wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade, winning several awards including the first prize in its class in 1855 and again in 1867 at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.
Hermès's son, Charles-Émile, took over management from his father in 1880 and moved the shop to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains. With the help of his sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice, Charles-Émile introduced saddlery and started selling his products retail. The company catered to the élite of Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. In 1900, the firm offered the Haut à Courroies bag, specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
After Charles-Émile Hermès's retirement, sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice took leadership and renamed the company Hermès Frères. Shortly after, Émile-Maurice began furnishing the czar of Russia with saddles. By 1914, up to 80 saddle craftsmen were employed. Subsequently, Émile-Maurice was granted the exclusive rights to use the zipper for leather goods and clothing, becoming the first to introduce the device in France. In 1918, Hermès introduced the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, made for Edward, Prince of Wales. Because of its exclusive rights arrangement the zipper became known in France as the fermeture Hermès (Hermès fastener).
Throughout the 1920s when he was the sole head of the firm, Émile-Maurice added accessories and clothing collections. He also groomed his three sons-in-law (Robert Dumas, Jean-René Guerrand, and Francis Puech) as business partners. In 1922, the first leather handbags were introduced after Émile-Maurice's wife complained of not being able to find one to her liking. Émile-Maurice created the handbag collection himself.
In 1924, Hermès established a presence in the United States and opened two shops outside of Paris. In 1929, the first women's couture apparel collection was previewed in Paris. During the 1930s, Hermès introduced some of its most recognized original goods such as the leather "Sac à dépêches" in 1935 (later renamed the "Kelly bag" after Grace Kelly) and the Hermès carrés (square scarves) in 1937.
The scarves became integrated into French culture. In 1938, the "Chaîne d'ancre" bracelet and the riding jacket and outfit joined the classic collection. By this point, the company's designers began to draw inspirations from paintings, books, and objets d'art. The 1930s also witnessed Hermès's entry into the United States market by offering products in a Neiman Marcus department store in New York; however, it later withdrew. In 1949, the same year as the launch of the Hermès silk tie, the first perfume, "Eau d'Hermès", was produced.
From 1936, Hermès employed Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève as the brand's first and exclusive designer of timepieces, producing a line of men's wrist watches (manufactured in 18K gold or stainless steel) and women's Art Déco cuff watches in 18K gold, steel, or platinum. Both models contained dials signed either "Universal Genève", "Hermès" or "Hermès Universal Genève", while the watch movements were signed "Universal Genève S.A.". The Hermès/Universal partnership lasted until 1941.
Émile-Maurice summarized the Hermès philosophy during his leadership as "leather, sport, and a tradition of refined elegance.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève for Hermès
- Model: Hermès 'Talisman'
- Reference: 18501
- Case N°: 8265xx
- Movement N°: 1151XX
- Year: 1941
- Material: Solid 18k Rose gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 22x37x6,5mm
- Caliber: UG 240
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved, the mint original champagne dial with black hands matching the numbers and the inserted indexes looks great.
This is an extremely rare Universal Genève / Hermès with a very elegant Art Déco design.
The large case for the era, still looks actual and has a very nice presence on the wrist, this refined watch can be worn everyday and for more formal occasions.
The watch comes with it's original Hermès advertisement and since it was just serviced, with a one year guarantee.
1956 Universal Geneve Polerouter 'Broad Arrow' Tropical Automatic - Ref. 20217 8
One of the most sough-after Polerouters in superb condition.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Designed by a young Gerald Genta, the Polerouter with its revolutionary design is a welcome addition to any collection.
In the Polerouter's range, the rare 'Broad Arrow' with it's striking hands and Nitelite marker ring stands out from the crowd.
This particular example checks all the collector's boxes:
. Beautiful black dial slightly tropicalised
. Marker ring with the Nitelite still present
. Readable engraved reference number and serial number
. Manufactured in 1956, just one year after the Polerouter lauching in november 1954
. Movement in great shape without any oxydation
. Unpolished case
This is the most beautiful Polerouter I have ever seen !
THE STORY
The Polerouter was designed in 1954 by a 24-years-old named Gerald Genta, the very same man who, almost 20 years later, would design the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Polerouter was launched in november 1954 to honor a pioneering flight over the North Pole by a SAS crew, hence its name. It was fitted with a bumper movement like the one you see here, later it was replaced by the caliber 215.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Polerouter 'Broad Arrow' Automatic
- Reference: 20217 8
- Case N°: 18292XX
- Year; 1956
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35,5x45x11mm
- Caliber: 138SS
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved with very light scratches throughout.
The slightly tropicalised black dial, matching the hands and marker ring, is just mesmerising.
This is an absolute classic vintage timepiece.
Perfect for everyday wear or storing in a safe...
1937 Universal Geneve Cuervo Y Sobrinos
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This isn't just any vintage Universal Genève. No, it's manufactured by them and retailed by Cuervo y Sobrinos in Cuba (as you can see on the dial). Cuervo y Sobrinos were the most famous watchmakers and distributors in Havana, until the political events that occured in the island during the late 1950s.
THE STORY
In 1882, the Cuervo family opened the first atelier and then also a boutique, situated at Havana's prestigious San Rafael Avenue. Later in 1900, Armando Rio Cuervo with the help of his family, worked diligently to expand the jewellery and watchmaking business founded by their uncle Ramon. Hence the name Cuervo y Sobrinos - Cuervo and Nephews. In addition to their own creations, Cuervo y Sobrinos distributed and sold the most important brands in global watchmaking. The family achieved such renown that some of the great watch brands engraved the Cuervo y Sobrinos name on their watch dials. Between 1920s and the 40s, the family decided to expand its production network in strategic European cities, Pforzheim, La Chaux-de-Fonds and Paris. In the 1950s, the boutique became an obligatory destination for some of the most illustrious visors to Havana during that era. Einstein, Caruso, Churchill, Hemingway, Clark Gable, Eleanora Duse, Pablo Neruda, all these illustrious clienteles came to the Cuervo y Sobrinos boutique when they visited the island.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Cuervo y Sobrinos -Art Deco, Carrée Galbée
- Reference: 7274
- Case N°: 702xxx
- Year: 1937
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x40x10mm
- Caliber: UG259
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved, and the original silver dial looks great. This is a rare Universal Genève with a very elegant Art Déco design.
1969 Universal Geneve Classical Extra-Flat Dresswatch - Ref. 842101
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular extra-flat watch has a very pure and minimalist design, making it insensitive to the fashion trends, eternal elegance. The very well preserved case has never been polished and the dial is original.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Classical Extra-Flat
- Reference: 842101
- Case N°: 2814xxx
- Year: 1969
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 31x38x7mm
- Caliber: UG 42
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 16mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age. The stainless steel case is well preserved and has never been polished. The original grey dial with white roman numbers matching the white hands is dahing. This is a great wristwatch, that can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1962 Universal Geneve Classical Extra-Flat Dresswatch - New condition - Ref. 18201-1
A fine and elegant gentleman's wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular extra-flat watch has a very pure and minimalist design, making it insensitive to the fashion trends, eternal elegance. The watch is in new condition and the case has never been repolished, the dial is original.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Classical Extra-Flat
- Reference: 18201-1
- Case N°: 2267xxx
- Year: 1962
- Material: 18k Solid Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38,5x6mm
- Caliber: UG 820
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age, new as a matter of fact. The solid 18k yellow gold case is mint and has never been repolished. The unrefinished silver-white dial with applied gold indexes has beautiful light effects. This is a great wristwatch, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1957 Universal Geneve 'Space Age' Wristwatch - Ref. 28803/1
A fine and rare gentleman's wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular extra-flat watch has a very special 'Space Age' design, with spectacular original hands. It is the only Universal Genève ever manufactured with its brand printed at 6hrs. The rarity and the exceptional design makes this particular example a collectors must.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Space Age Extra-Flat
- Reference: 28803/1
- Case N°: 1915xxx
- Year: 1957
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 31x38x8mm
- Caliber: UG 800
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 16mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in good condition, the stainless steel case is well preserved and has never been repolished. The unrefinished slightly patinated white dial, with the special design and the amazing hands, is startling. This is a great wristwatch that can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1936 Universal Geneve - 'Marquis' for Hermès - Stainless steel - Ref. 5502
An extremely rare and elegant watch, made especially for Hermès
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This isn't just any vintage collectible Universal Genève.
No, it was manufactured by the famous watchmaker, exclusively for Hermès (Paris) ,as you can see on the attached advertisement.
Hermès, as you probably know, is the most famous and exclusive French luxury brand.
Because Hermès appreciated the elegance and refinement of the Universal Genève watches, between 1936 and 1941 they choosed Universal Genève to manufacture timepieces with patented Hermès designs.
This rare, unpolished with original unrefinished dial, timepiece looks absolutely stunning and all the angles are still crisp.
The watch comes with it's original 1936 Hermès advertisement.
THE STORY
Thierry Hermès was born in Krefeld, Germany, to a French father and a German mother. The family moved to France in 1828. In 1837, Hermès first established a harness workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, dedicated to serving European noblemen. He created high-quality wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade, winning several awards including the first prize in its class in 1855 and again in 1867 at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.
Hermès's son, Charles-Émile, took over management from his father in 1880 and moved the shop to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains. With the help of his sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice, Charles-Émile introduced saddlery and started selling his products retail. The company catered to the élite of Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. In 1900, the firm offered the Haut à Courroies bag, specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
After Charles-Émile Hermès's retirement, sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice took leadership and renamed the company Hermès Frères. Shortly after, Émile-Maurice began furnishing the czar of Russia with saddles. By 1914, up to 80 saddle craftsmen were employed. Subsequently, Émile-Maurice was granted the exclusive rights to use the zipper for leather goods and clothing, becoming the first to introduce the device in France. In 1918, Hermès introduced the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, made for Edward, Prince of Wales. Because of its exclusive rights arrangement the zipper became known in France as the fermeture Hermès (Hermès fastener).
Throughout the 1920s when he was the sole head of the firm, Émile-Maurice added accessories and clothing collections. He also groomed his three sons-in-law (Robert Dumas, Jean-René Guerrand, and Francis Puech) as business partners. In 1922, the first leather handbags were introduced after Émile-Maurice's wife complained of not being able to find one to her liking. Émile-Maurice created the handbag collection himself.
In 1924, Hermès established a presence in the United States and opened two shops outside of Paris. In 1929, the first women's couture apparel collection was previewed in Paris. During the 1930s, Hermès introduced some of its most recognized original goods such as the leather "Sac à dépêches" in 1935 (later renamed the "Kelly bag" after Grace Kelly) and the Hermès carrés (square scarves) in 1937.
The scarves became integrated into French culture. In 1938, the "Chaîne d'ancre" bracelet and the riding jacket and outfit joined the classic collection. By this point, the company's designers began to draw inspirations from paintings, books, and objets d'art. The 1930s also witnessed Hermès's entry into the United States market by offering products in a Neiman Marcus department store in New York; however, it later withdrew. In 1949, the same year as the launch of the Hermès silk tie, the first perfume, "Eau d'Hermès", was produced.
From 1936, Hermès employed Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève as the brand's first and exclusive designer of timepieces, producing a line of men's wrist watches (manufactured in 18K gold or stainless steel) and women's Art Déco cuff watches in 18K gold, steel, or platinum. Both models contained dials signed either "Universal Genève", "Hermès" or "Hermès Universal Genève", while the watch movements were signed "Universal Genève S.A.". The Hermès/Universal partnership lasted until 1941.
Émile-Maurice summarized the Hermès philosophy during his leadership as "leather, sport, and a tradition of refined elegance.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève for Hermès
- Model: Hermès 'Marquis'
- Reference: 5502
- Case N°: 6273xx
- Year: 1936
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 24x32x7mm
- Caliber: UG 246
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition. The case, well preserved, with the cool original black dial and silver hands and numbers, looks dashing.
This is an extremely rare Universal Genève / Hermès wristwatch, with a very elegant Art Déco design.
This refined timepiece can be worn everyday and for more formal occasions.
The watch comes with it's original Hermès advertisement and with a one year guarantee.
1955 Universal Geneve Polerouter Automatic - Ref. S 20217 4
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Designed by a young Gerald Genta, the Polerouter with its revolutionary design is a welcome addition to any collection.
THE STORY
The Polerouter was designed in 1954 by a 24-years-old named Gerald Genta, the very same man who, almost 20 years later, would design the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Polerouter was launched in november 1954 to honor a pioneering flight over the North Pole by a SAS crew, hence its name. It was fitted with a bumper movement like the one you see here, later it was replaced by the caliber 215. This Polerouter Automatic, one of the first produced, boasts a robust stainless-steel case with a black glossy dial.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Polerouter Automatic
- Reference: S 20217 4
- Case N°: 171xxx0
- Year: 1955
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x40x10mm
- Caliber: 138SS
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved with very light scratches throughout, and the black dial looks great.This is a classic vintage legenday Polerouter, perfect for everyday wear.
1955 Universal Geneve Polerouter Automatic - Ref. S 20217 5
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One of the very first Polerouters manufactured, a couple of months after its launching.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Designed by a young Gerald Genta, the Polerouter with its revolutionary design is a welcome addition to any collection. This Polerouter Automatic, one of the first produced, boasts a robust stainless-steel case with a silver glossy dial. The overall condition is exceptional, the case was never repolished and the back cover still has its beautiful sunburst finish preserved. This particular model with the 'Bumper' automatic movement was produced only for one year (From 11/1955 to beginning 1956).
Reference: Same watch ref. sold at Christies in 2016 for 4.250€
THE STORY
The Polerouter was designed in 1954 by a 24-years-old named Gerald Genta, the very same man who, almost 20 years later, would design the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Polerouter was launched in november 1954 to honor a pioneering flight over the North Pole by a SAS crew, hence its name. It was fitted with a bumper movement like the one you see here, later it was replaced by the caliber 215.
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Polerouter Automatic
- Reference: S 20217 5
- Case N°: 17326xx
- Year: 1955
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x40x10mm
- Caliber: 138SS
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This unrepolished watch is in incredible condition for its age. The case back is very well preserved and the glossy silver dial looks great. This is a classic vintage legenday Polerouter, nice presence on the wrist and perfect for everyday wear.
1945 Universal Geneve Exceptionnal Design - Ref. 112126
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular watch has the most extravagant and elegant cobination, this incredibly well preserved watch has never been repolished and has the most striking look one can dream of. Pink gold cases were very limited and made only for exclusive designs. The condition and the very scarce model make it truly a collector's timepiece.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Spectacular case
- Reference: 112126
- Case N°: 1250xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Pink Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35x39x10mm
- Caliber: In House UG 262
- Bracelet/Strap: Black ostrich leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age. The 18k solid pink gold case is extremely well preserved and has never been repolished. The unrefinished dial with its large seconds subdial and applied roman gold markers is simply stunning. This is a great wristwatch, elegant and rare. Witness of an era with it's incredible lugs and thick crystal, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions. A work of art on your wrist !
1940 Universal Geneve large 'Talisman' for Hermès - Ref 7477
Sold out
An extremely rare and elegant watch, made especially for Hermès
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This isn't just any vintage Universal Genève. No, it's manufactured by them and retailed onlyby Hermès in France (as you can see on the advertisement). Hermès is the most famous and elegant French brand and they asked Universal Genève to manufacture their watches between 1936 and 1941.
THE STORY
Thierry Hermès was born in Krefeld, Germany, to a French father and a German mother. The family moved to France in 1828. In 1837, Hermès first established a harness workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, dedicated to serving European noblemen. He created high-quality wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade, winning several awards including the first prize in its class in 1855 and again in 1867 at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.
Hermès's son, Charles-Émile, took over management from his father in 1880 and moved the shop to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains. With the help of his sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice, Charles-Émile introduced saddlery and started selling his products retail. The company catered to the élite of Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. In 1900, the firm offered the Haut à Courroies bag, specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
After Charles-Émile Hermès's retirement, sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice took leadership and renamed the company Hermès Frères. Shortly after, Émile-Maurice began furnishing the czar of Russia with saddles. By 1914, up to 80 saddle craftsmen were employed. Subsequently, Émile-Maurice was granted the exclusive rights to use the zipper for leather goods and clothing, becoming the first to introduce the device in France. In 1918, Hermès introduced the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, made for Edward, Prince of Wales. Because of its exclusive rights arrangement the zipper became known in France as the fermeture Hermès (Hermès fastener).
Throughout the 1920s when he was the sole head of the firm, Émile-Maurice added accessories and clothing collections. He also groomed his three sons-in-law (Robert Dumas, Jean-René Guerrand, and Francis Puech) as business partners. In 1922, the first leather handbags were introduced after Émile-Maurice's wife complained of not being able to find one to her liking. Émile-Maurice created the handbag collection himself.
In 1924, Hermès established a presence in the United States and opened two shops outside of Paris. In 1929, the first women's couture apparel collection was previewed in Paris. During the 1930s, Hermès introduced some of its most recognized original goods such as the leather "Sac à dépêches" in 1935 (later renamed the "Kelly bag" after Grace Kelly) and the Hermès carrés (square scarves) in 1937.
The scarves became integrated into French culture. In 1938, the "Chaîne d'ancre" bracelet and the riding jacket and outfit joined the classic collection. By this point, the company's designers began to draw inspirations from paintings, books, and objets d'art. The 1930s also witnessed Hermès's entry into the United States market by offering products in a Neiman Marcus department store in New York; however, it later withdrew. In 1949, the same year as the launch of the Hermès silk tie, the first perfume, "Eau d'Hermès", was produced.
From 1936, Hermès employed Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève as the brand's first and exclusive designer of timepieces, producing a line of men's wrist watches (manufactured in 18K gold or stainless steel) and women's Art Déco cuff watches in 18K gold, steel, or platinum. Both models contained dials signed either "Universal Genève", "Hermès" or "Hermès Universal Genève", while the watch movements were signed "Universal Genève S.A.". The Hermès/Universal partnership lasted until 1940.
Émile-Maurice summarized the Hermès philosophy during his leadership as "leather, sport, and a tradition of refined elegance.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Hermès 'Talisman'
- Reference: 7477
- Case N°: 801xxx
- Year: 1940
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 22x37x8mm
- Caliber: UG 240
- Bracelet/Strap: Black custom made leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved, and the original black dial with hold hands matching the indexes looks great. This is a rare Universal Genève / Hermès with a very elegant Art Déco design. The large case for the era, still looks actual and has a very nice presence on the wrist, this refined watch can be worn everyday and for more formal occasions.
1958 Universal Geneve Polerouter Microtor Automatic - Stainless steel - Cal. 215 - Pat. +329805+
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Designed by a young Gerald Genta, the Polerouter with its revolutionary design is a welcome addition to any collection. The Patent for the technical design was applied on 27th May 1955 and, after some legal troubble, registered on 15th May 1958 under the No. 329805. Therefore, the movements of the first production years are signed "Patented Rights Pending" underneath the rotor. The first movement introduced in spring 1955 was the cal. 215. The rotor is winding the mainspring in both directions, enabling more energy to be stored. The main characteristics are: 28.0 mm diameter, 4.1 mm height, 18,000 vibrations per hour, 28 jewels. The 2-arm monometallic balance is protected by an Incabloc antishock system. The self-compensating flat Nivarox hairspring is blue coloured. The escape wheel is fitted with a Gyrocap shock-protection. The regulator is very short and arrow-shaped; since 1958 a long shaped regulator was used. The power reserve of 60 hours is exptional high. The rotor is pink gold-plated with a "Colimaconnage" finish, the movement rhodiumed with a fine "Fausses cotes de Genève" decoration.
THE STORY
The Polerouter was designed in 1954 by a 24-years-old named Gerald Genta, the very same man who, almost 20 years later, would design the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Polerouter was launched in november 1954 to honor a pioneering flight over the North Pole by a SAS crew, hence its name. It was fitted with a bumper movement, later it was replaced by the caliber 215. This Polerouter Automatic, one of the first produced, with a long shaped regulator like explained above boasts a robust stainless-steel case with a silver glossy dial.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Polerouter Automatic Microtor Pat. +329805+
- Year: 1958
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x43x10mm
- Caliber: Universal Genève Microtor 215
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved with very light scratches throughout, and the silver dial looks great. This Polerouter is still in it's original condition with the signed crown and especially the unfindable original crystal with the Universal Genève logo etched in the center. This is a classic vintage legenday Polerouter, perfect for everyday wear.
1937 Universal Geneve 'Top Hat' for Hermès
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This isn't just any vintage Universal Genève. No, it's manufactured by them and retailed only by Hermès in France (as you can see on the advertisement). Hermès is the most famous and elegant French brand and they asked Universal Genève to manufacture their watches between 1936 and 1940.
THE STORY
Thierry Hermès was born in Krefeld, Germany, to a French father and a German mother. The family moved to France in 1828. In 1837, Hermès first established a harness workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, dedicated to serving European noblemen. He created high-quality wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade, winning several awards including the first prize in its class in 1855 and again in 1867 at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.
Hermès's son, Charles-Émile, took over management from his father in 1880 and moved the shop to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains. With the help of his sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice, Charles-Émile introduced saddlery and started selling his products retail. The company catered to the élite of Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. In 1900, the firm offered the Haut à Courroies bag, specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
After Charles-Émile Hermès's retirement, sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice took leadership and renamed the company Hermès Frères. Shortly after, Émile-Maurice began furnishing the czar of Russia with saddles. By 1914, up to 80 saddle craftsmen were employed. Subsequently, Émile-Maurice was granted the exclusive rights to use the zipper for leather goods and clothing, becoming the first to introduce the device in France. In 1918, Hermès introduced the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, made for Edward, Prince of Wales. Because of its exclusive rights arrangement the zipper became known in France as the fermeture Hermès (Hermès fastener).
Throughout the 1920s when he was the sole head of the firm, Émile-Maurice added accessories and clothing collections. He also groomed his three sons-in-law (Robert Dumas, Jean-René Guerrand, and Francis Puech) as business partners. In 1922, the first leather handbags were introduced after Émile-Maurice's wife complained of not being able to find one to her liking. Émile-Maurice created the handbag collection himself.
In 1924, Hermès established a presence in the United States and opened two shops outside of Paris. In 1929, the first women's couture apparel collection was previewed in Paris. During the 1930s, Hermès introduced some of its most recognized original goods such as the leather "Sac à dépêches" in 1935 (later renamed the "Kelly bag" after Grace Kelly) and the Hermès carrés (square scarves) in 1937.
The scarves became integrated into French culture. In 1938, the "Chaîne d'ancre" bracelet and the riding jacket and outfit joined the classic collection. By this point, the company's designers began to draw inspirations from paintings, books, and objets d'art. The 1930s also witnessed Hermès's entry into the United States market by offering products in a Neiman Marcus department store in New York; however, it later withdrew. In 1949, the same year as the launch of the Hermès silk tie, the first perfume, "Eau d'Hermès", was produced.
From 1936, Hermès employed Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève as the brand's first and exclusive designer of timepieces, producing a line of men's wrist watches (manufactured in 18K gold or stainless steel) and women's Art Déco cuff watches in 18K gold, steel, or platinum. Both models contained dials signed either "Universal Genève", "Hermès" or "Hermès Universal Genève", while the watch movements were signed "Universal Genève S.A.". The Hermès/Universal partnership lasted until 1940.
Émile-Maurice summarized the Hermès philosophy during his leadership as "leather, sport, and a tradition of refined elegance.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Hermès 'Top Hat'
- Reference: N/A
- Case N°: 675xxx
- Year: 1937
- Material: 18k Solid Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 24x32x10mm
- Caliber: In House UG 256
- Bracelet/Strap: Black custom made leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved, and the original black dial with gold hands matching the indexes looks great. This is a rare Universal Genève / Hermès with a very elegant Art Déco design. The case has an elegant presence on the wrist, this refined watch can be worn everyday and for more formal occasions.
1955 Universal Geneve Polerouter Automatic - Ref. S 20217 5
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Designed by a young Gerald Genta, the Polerouter with its revolutionary design is a welcome addition to any collection. This particular model with the 'Bumper' automatic movement was produced only for one year (From 11/1955 to beginning 1956).
Reference: Same watch ref. sold at Christies in 2016 for 4.250€
THE STORY
The Polerouter was designed in 1954 by a 24-years-old named Gerald Genta, the very same man who, almost 20 years later, would design the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Polerouter was launched in november 1954 to honor a pioneering flight over the North Pole by a SAS crew, hence its name. It was fitted with a bumper movement like the one you see here, later it was replaced by the caliber 215. This Polerouter Automatic, one of the first produced, boasts a robust stainless-steel case with a silver glossy dial.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Polerouter Automatic
- Reference: S 20217 5
- Case N°: 1715xxx
- Year: 1955
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x40x10mm
- Caliber: 138SS
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in very good condition for its age. The case is well preserved with very light scratches throughout, and the silver dial looks great. This Polerouter is still in it's original condition with the signed crown and especially the unfindable original crystal with the Universal Genève logo etched in the center.This is a classic vintage legenday Polerouter, perfect for everyday wear.
1945 Universal Geneve Gentleman's Watch - Ref. 21036
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular watch has a very special and elegant combination, this incredibly well preserved watch has never been repolished and the dial is original and perfect. The condition and the scarce model make it truly a collector's timepiece.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Classical Square with curved lugs
- Reference: 21036
- Case N°: 1124xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 27x32x10mm
- Caliber: In House UG 260
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown aligator leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age. The stainless steel case is well preserved and has never been repolished. The unrefinished dial with silver numbers matching the leaf hands is very elegant. This is a great wristwatch, elegant and rare. Witness of an era with it's special case, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1932 Universal Geneve Curvex Art-Deco
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular watch has a very special and elegant combination, this very early Universal watch has never been repolished and the two-tone dial is original. The condition and the scarce model make it truly a collector's timepiece.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Curvex Art-Deco
- Reference: N/A
- Case N°: 523xxx
- Year: 1932
- Material: 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 22x37x7mm
- Caliber: In House UG 15J
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 17mm Fixed bars
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age. The solid 18k yellow gold case is well preserved and has never been repolished. The unrefinished dial with Art-Deco design matching the blued steel sword hands is dashing. This is a great wristwatch, elegant and rare. Witness of an era with it's special curvex hingedcase, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
