Selection over 10,000€
1934 Rolex 'Curvex' 18K Solid gold - Ref. 869
A fine and extremely rare 18K Rolex 'Curvex' Ref. 869
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Rolex Geneva states that the reference 869 was manufactured in 1934 and made in a unique series of only 20 pieces !
This featured model is in an extremely well preserved original condition and comes with its original box from 1934.
The 'Curvex' (Curved case for a better fit on the wrist) models were very rare and this one features a large unpolished case housing a beautiful original black dial.
This is a very collectible timepiece with a large size accordingto today's standards, usually the watches were way smaller at the time..
THE STORY
Rolex, in full Montres Rolex SA, also called (1905–15) Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd. and (1915–20) Rolex Watch Co. Ltd., Swiss manufacturer of rugged but luxurious watces. Company headquarters are in Geneva.Founder Hans Wilsdorf was born in Germany but moved to Switzerland when he was a young man. There he found work at a watch-exporting company in La Chax-de-Fonds, one of the centres of the Swiss horological industry. He then moved to London, where in 1905 he and a brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, established Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd. to assemble and market watches using works imported from Switzerland. At a time when most men still wore large pocket watches and considered “wristlet” watches—as they were then called—to be slightly effeminate, Wilsdorf, the dominant partner, staked his company’s future on the wristwatch. He came up with the brand name Rolex, registered it as a trademark in 1908, and set out to make wristwatches that were both manly and fashionable. In 1914, in an early display of his considerable talent for generating publicity, Wilsdorf had the British government certify a Rolex as the first wristwatch to pass a test for durability and accuracy that was customarily given only to marine chronometer. The company was renamed Rolex Watch Co. Ltd. in 1915, probably because the name Wilsdorf was provoking anti-German prejudice in Great Britain during World War I. Rolex opened a Geneva office in 1919 and soon afterward moved headquarters to Switzerland and adopted the French-language corporate name of Montres Rolex SA. Rolex registered the five-spiked crown as its trademark in 1925, while steadily improving its products. In 1926 the company introduced the waterproof and airtight Oyster model. The Oyster Perpetual, said to be the first self-winding wristwatch, followed five years later. In 1956 Rolex introduced the Milgauss, a watch especially resistant to magnetization, a phenomenon that can reduce accuracy. The company also carried a less-expensive line of watches called Tudor, which it had introduced in 1952.
Rolex consistently strove to associate itself with sportsmen, adventurers, and athletes of both sexes. In 1927 Wilsdorf gave Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim the English channel, a Rolex to wear on her wrist while attempting a Channel crossing. (Not until later would the company make watch models specifically for women.) The British driver Sir Malcolm Campbell gave Rolex an endorsement after wearing its watches during his land speed record attempts in the early 1930s. Rolex achieved a publicity coup in 1953 when Edmund Hillary and other members of his expedition made the first successful ascent of Earth’s highest peak, Mount Everest, while wearing Rolex wristwatches. In January 1960, when Jacques Piccard’s bathyscaphe Trieste made its descent into the planet’s deepest waters, in the Mariana Trench, a specially made Rolex with a thick “bubble” crystal was attached to the vessel’s hull—and was found to be in working order after the vessel resurfaced.
THE DATA
- Maker: Rolex
- Model: Curvex
- Reference: 869
- Case N°: 640XX
- Year: 1934
- Material: Solid 18K Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 26x37x9mm
- Caliber: Rolex 520
- Bracelet/Strap: Aligator
- Buckle: Original Rolex
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Rolex box from 1934
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The unpolished 18K solid gold case has all its sharp angles well preserved and the black original dial is stunning.
This is a great and extremely rare Rolex Curvex, very elegant and highly collectible.
A nice presence on the wrist with its large case, perfect for every day wear.
1946 Heuer 'Pre-Carrera' Big Eyes, Black Gilt Dial - Ref. 433
A Fine and very Rare chronograph with a striking black gilt dial.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This is a stunning and clean example of a 1946 Heuer Reference 433 chronograph, often referred to as a “Pre-Carrera” range. They formed the basis for the iconic Carrera line. This 433 particular example is powered by a modified Valjoux 22 movement and is quite rare to find, especially in such a near to mint original condition.
The case has never been polished, with sharp edges and defined beveled lugs, all parts are original.
This is one amazingly attractive timepiece.
THE STORY
The Heuer watches that begin appearing in the 1940s include some that are very much sought after classics today. Elements of models like the 433 can be seen in later watches like the Carrera. Occasionally, these watches are referred to as “pre-Carreras”, some similarities are clear.
The 433 is a very attractive watch, with its black gilt dial featuring large counters, known as 'Big Eyes'. This example, dating from the end of the WWII, still has the non-waterproof bar pushers and shallow Heuer shield.
Aware of the power of brand, Heuer also saw the benefit of linking eminent personalities with their watches, foreshadowing the later “ambassadors” programme. One such noted individual at the end of the WWII was General Eisenhower, of course later to become US president, who purchased and wore one black dialled 'Pre-Carrera'.
THE DATA
- Maker: Heuer
- Model: Pre-Carrera 'Big Eyes'
- Reference: 433
- Case N°: 641XX
- Year: 1946
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxT): 35x46x11mm
- Caliber: Ed. Heuer & Co (Base: Valjoux 22)
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in very well preserved condition, The black gilt dial matching perfectly the original gold 'Leaf' hands and indexes is absolutely stunning and makes this particular watch a real beauty. All parts are untouched and unpolished, the sharp angles are preserved. It has a very elegant and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1940 Universal Geneve Compax 'Flying Saucer' Faceted case - Ref. 12201
An extremely rare and attractive 18K pink gold chronograph wristwatch .
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Compax is a quintessential chronograph from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and well-proportioned case, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This solid pink gold Compax illustrates the beauty of Universal Genève’s production in the 1940s with it's original dial and hands matching the applied gold indexes. This particulary elegant example boasts a 'Flying saucer' case without handles and with 24 faceting on shoulder edge.
Launched in around 1935, the Universal Genève Compax range of chronographs featured for the first time in watchmaking history a movement with the second column wheel under the dial. This particular example is a very attractive, wearable and collectible example of Universal's mid-century production.
A similar pink gold example of the "Flying Saucer" Compax ref. 12201 model is prominently illustrated and described in Universal Watch Genève by Pietro Giuliano Sala, p. 246 & 247.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model:' Flying Saucer', Faceted case
- Reference: 12201
- Case N°: 7955xx
- Year: 1940
- Material: Solid 18K Pink Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x34x12mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a well preserved original dial , the pink gold hands and unrepolished case are also in very nice condition. There is no sign of corrosion on the movement.
This is a great and extremely rare chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible.
A nice presence on the wrist and perfect for every situation.
1940 Universal Genève Oversized 38mm Military Compur - Ref. 22516
Extremely rare and well preserved military compur.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Compur is a quintessential chronograph from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and well-proportioned case, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This particulary extremely rare military example, boasts an impressive oversized unploshed 38mm case and a flawless original black dial. Universal Genève chronographs were usually much smaller at the time. Trademaked in 1937, the Universal Genève Compur range of chronographs featured for the first time in watchmaking history a movement with the second column wheel under the dial.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Compur was lauched in 1937 and quickly became a hit. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful tool watches such as this Compur with two subsidiary dials and sword hands. This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and sporty look.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Compur Oversized Military
- Reference: 22516
- Case N°: 8132xx
- Year: 1940
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x45x13mm
- Caliber: In House UG 287
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age, the unpolished case, original dial and movement are just exceptionnal. Oversized cases are very rare and this particular reference even more. The black dial with its original lume complete matching the silver steel 'sword' hands is mesmerising. This is a fine and extremely rare vintage chronograph, elegant and sporty, with a presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday wear.
1951 Universal Geneve Oversized 38mm Climate-Proof Pink Gold + Papers - Ref. 124113
A very rare, large and attractive 18K pink gold chronograph wristwatch with its original papers.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The “Climate-proof” system was developed by Universal in the aim of creating a watch resisting to different weather conditions. The case construction consists of water-resistant-type round chronograph pusher and a metal dust cap underneath the snap on back made of a special alloy to withstand weather changes.With its large 37.5 mm. diameter and the attractive multi-scale dial, it is a very attractive, wearable and collectible example of Universal's mid-century production.
Another pink gold example of the "Climate-proof" Compax ref. 123113 model is prominently illustrated and described in Universal Watch Genève by Pietro Giuliano Sala, p. 278.
This chronograph, from 1951 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it is in extremely well preserved condition, but especially because it still has the original papers, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Climate-Proof
- Reference: 124113
- Case N°: 1549xxx
- Year: 1951
- Material: Solid 18K Pink Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37,5x45x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 285
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather with original pinbuckle
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: Original Universal Genève Guarantee
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a very well preserved original dial , the pink gold hands and unrepolished case are also in superb condition. There is no sign of corrosion on the movement, the double dust cover case is present, just like the original pink gold plated buckle.
This is a great and extremely rare chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible, especially with its original guarantee.
A nice presence on the wrist with its 38mm case, perfect for every situation.
1946 Rolex Oyster 36mm Ovettone aka 'Big Bubbleback' - FULL SET - Ref. 5028
An fine and rare steel Rolex Oyster Chronometer 'Big Bubbleback' Ref. 5028 with its original box and guarantee
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Rolex Oyster case is as relevant and stylish today as it was when it was introduced in 1926. It’s been interpreted in different ways and in different sizes. From gem-set examples in precious metals to super sized steel versions, the Oyster is as versatile as it is elegant. Maybe the purest form of the watch is the simple time-only examples that date to the 1940s and 50s, an era when the watches were being used by explorers, scientists and the military, a period when the world first witnessed the Rolex Bubbleback .One style of Oyster is the watch known by its Italian nickname, the Ovettone (translated as big egg). Beautifully proportioned watches that were big for the era, the Bubblebacks are a vintage fusion of early Sports Rolex and elegant dress watches. Here we have a very cool oversized example to share, the vast majority were smaller in diameter (34mm), this Ovettone reference 5028 has a beautiful two-Tone dial and was manufactured in 1946, sold by Bucherer in 1951. The fact that this watch comes with its original guarantee and box is exceptionnal and makes it a very rare collectors timepiece !
THE STORY
The Bubbleback story began in the mid 1940s with the 5020 series watches. These were a lot bigger than regular bubblebacks, measuring 36mm instead of 34mm. The 1940s was a time when watches were on average 32mm and so the 36mm Bubblebacks packed a real punch. Featuring pressure fit crystals in a monobloc case, the 5020 series utilised the standard bubbleback crown and tube on the large cases.The 5020 series comprised two references. The 5028 was a time only watch with centre-seconds and reference 5026 had a sub seconds register in the bottom half of the dial. So why are these watches known as Bubblebacks ? The name refers to the shape of the case, if viewed in side-profile. The watches were fitted with the automatic, self-winding movements and this necessitated a pronounced rounded caseback. Coupled with the domed crystal the watch had a significant depth and on the wrist was noticeably high.
THE DATA
- Maker: Rolex
- Model: Oyster Perpetual Chronometer 'Ovettone' (aka 'Big Bubbleback')
- Reference: 5028
- Case N°: 3917XX
- Year: 1946
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x43x14 mm
- Caliber: 10 1/2" A.295
- Bracelet/Strap: Cowhide leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: Original Rolex guarantee & Box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The unpolished stainless steel case is very well preserved, and the Two-Tone original dial is stunning. This is a great and extremely rare Rolex Oyster, elegant and highly collectible, especially with its original box and papers. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and sporting activities.
1944 Heuer 'Pre-Carrera' Tropical Caramel Dial - Valjoux 72 - Ref. 2443
A Fine and Rare chronograph with a striking unique tropical dial.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This is a stunning and clean example of a 1944 Heuer Reference 2443 chronograph, often referred to as a “Pre-Carrera”. They formed the basis for the iconic Carrera line. This particular example is powered by the legendary Valjoux 72 movement, which was also used in the Rolex Daytona and other high-end chronographs, and features an exceedingly rare white dial that turned to light brown with the time.
The chronograph is in excellent condition. The case has never been polished, with sharp edges and defined beveled lugs.
This is one amazingly attractive timepiece.
THE STORY
The Heuer watches that begin appearing in the 1940s include some that are very much sought after classics today. Elements of models like the 2443 and 2447 can be seen in later watches like the Carrera, which even shares a model reference with the earlier watch. Occasionally, these watches are referred to as “pre-Carreras”, some similarities are clear.
The 2443 is an attractive watch, with its silver white dial that turned 'Tropical' with the time and this example, dating from just before the end of the war, still has the non-waterproof bar pushers and shallow Heuer shield.
Aware of the power of brand, Heuer also saw the benefit of linking eminent personalities with their watches, foreshadowing the later “ambassadors” programme. One such noted individual at the end of the war was General Eisenhower, of course later to become US president, who purchased and wore one 2443 in 1945.
Later 2443s would adopt the waterproof pushers and the fuller Heuer shield familiar to many collectors from the 1960s watches.
THE DATA
- Maker: Heuer
- Model: Pre-Carrera
- Reference: 2443
- Case N°: 614XX
- Year: 1944
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxT): 35,5x43x12mm
- Caliber: Ed. Heuer & Co (Base: Valjoux 72)
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in very well preserved condition, The even 'Tropical' patina of the dial matching perfectly the original gold 'Leaf' hands and indexes is absolutely stunning and makes this particular watch unique. All parts are untouched and unpolished, the sharp angles are preserved. It has a very elegant and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1941 Universal Geneve Oversized 38mm Compax - Ref. 12510
An extremely rare and elegant Oversized Chronograph.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Compax is a quintessential chronograph from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and well-proportioned case, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This solid gold Compax illustrates the beauty of Universal Genève’s production in the 1940s, with it's rare and original perfect black/gold glossy dial matching gold 'leaf' hands. This particulary elegant example boasts an impressive oversized 38mm case,Universal Genève chronographs were usually much smaller at the time.
Launched in around 1935, the Universal Genève Compax range of chronographs featured for the first time in watchmaking history a movement with the second column wheel under the dial.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy
Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. From 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The immaculate black glossy dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it neatly matches the tone of the 18k solid gold case. Additionally, the 38mm size, combined with its thinness, makes for a very modern and comfortable watch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Geneve
- Model: Compax
- Reference: 12510
- Case N°: 811xxx
- Year: 1941
- Material: 18k Solid Yellow Gold
- Dimensions (WxHxT): 38x44x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House Universal 287
- Bracelet/Strap: Black Leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. Black dials are very rare and this particular original one is like new, this chronograph looks absolutely great. This is a fine and rare vintage Universal Genève, elegant and dashing, with a nice presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday or more formal wear.
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax Fat Lugs 'Cornes Or' - Ref. 22261
An extremely rare and spectacular early Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market.
This version, from 1943 is not only exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but especially because of it's striking rare case combining solid 18k red gold lugs (Cornes Or) and stainless steel case.
A representation of this 'Cornes Or' particular model is represented in the Universal Genève archives, reproduced page 361 in the famous Pietro Sala's book ' Universal Watch Genève'.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example offers all the features a collector would dream of; An extremely rare version made out of solid red gold and steel with long correctors pushers, the original and very particular 'drop indexes' dial and an overall great condition for a 75 years old timepiece.
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy
Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. From 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The immaculate black glossy dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it neatly matches the tone of the 18k solid gold case. Additionally, the 38mm size, combined with its thinness, makes for a very modern and comfortable watch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax Fat Lugs 'Cornes Or'
- Reference: 22261
- Case N°: 947xxx
- Year: 1943
- Material: Solid 18k Red Gold & Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligatorleather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid gold & steel case is well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a rare vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist due to the large lugs and the protruding pushers, perfect for every situation.
1938 Universal Geneve Compur Art-Deco - Ref. 12402
An extremely rare and early Art-Deco Compur.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Compur is a quintessential chronograph from Universal Genève. This featured example with its balanced dial and extraordinary Art-Deco case is extremely rare, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This particular model boasts a striking and unfindable 35mm art-deco case with it's original silver white dial, the exactly same combination as in the Universal Genève archives. Trademaked in 1937, the Universal Genève Compur range of chronographs featured for the first time in watchmaking history a movement with the second column wheel under the dial, Tis model was manufactured in 1938, the first year of the Compur's production. The famous Compur line was replaced in the early 1940 by the Uni-Compaxes.
A representation of this 'Art-Déco' rare model is represented in the Universal Genève archives, reproduced page 182 in the famous Pietro Sala's book ' Universal Watch Genève'.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Compur range was lauched in 1937 and quickly became a hit. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful tool watches such as this Compur with two subsidiary dials and burnished steel hands. This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy
Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. From 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The immaculate black glossy dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it neatly matches the tone of the 18k solid gold case. Additionally, the 38mm size, combined with its thinness, makes for a very modern and comfortable watch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Compur 'Art-Deco' Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Reference: 12402
- Case N°: 719xxx
- Year: 1938
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35x42x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 285
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. Manufactured the first year of the Compur's production, the 18k solid gold 'Art Déco' case is extremely well preserved, and the silver-white dial is stunning. This is a great vintage chronograph, elegant and extremely rare, in 35 years of collecting Universal Genève timepieces, it is the only one that I ever saw. Elegant and the witness of an era with it's stepped lugs and special case, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn for all occasions.
1942 Universal Genève Oversized 38mm Uni-Compax 'Spillman' case - Ref. 22409
Sold out
The most desirable and impressive military Uni-Compax
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Uni-Compax is a quintessential chronograph from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and well-proportioned case, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly.
This particulary rare waterproof example manufactured in 1942/43 boasts an impressive oversized 38mm 'Spillman' unrepolished waterproof case and a flawless original black dial. Universal Genève chronographs were usually much smaller at the time and with flat pushers. Around 1941, the Universal Genève Uni-Compax range of chronographs replaced the Compur.
A similar example of the Uni-Compax ref. 22409 model is prominently illustrated and described in the famous book 'Universal Watch Genève' by Pietro Giuliano Sala, page 197.
References: The same 22409 ref. (but in less good condition; common pushers, overpolished case and inside caseback resatinated ) was sold by Antiquorum for 22.000 € on july 17, 2018 (Link here).
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Compur was lauched in 1937 and quickly became a hit. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful tool watches such as this Uni-Compax with two subsidiary dials and big numerals. This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and sporty look.
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy
Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. From 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The immaculate black glossy dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it neatly matches the tone of the 18k solid gold case. Additionally, the 38mm size, combined with its thinness, makes for a very modern and comfortable watch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Uni-Compax 'Spillman'
- Reference: 22409
- Case N°: 1009xxx
- Year: 1942
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x45x13mm
- Caliber: In House UG 285
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredible overall good condition for its age. The unrepolished case with its preserved sharp angles and mint original black dial with lume still present, makes it truly a collectors chronograph. Oversized cases are very rare and this military example with particular round wateproof pushers is very desirable and hard to find. The original and mint black glossy dial, with steel sword hands, looks dashing.
This is a fine and rare collectible vintage chronograph, elegant and sporty, with a nice presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday wear.
1945 Universal Geneve Oversized Tri-Compax - Ref. 12552
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An extremely well preserved and spectacular Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1945 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first year of the Tri-Compax production, but especially because of it's striking oversized 37mm untouched gold case.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example offers all the features a collector would dream of; A classic and oversized version made out of solid yellow gold, the original 'gold indexes' dial and an overall great condition for a 75 years old timepiece.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax
- Reference: 12552
- Case N°: 1129xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 287
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid yellow gold is extremely well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear.
1969 Zenith El Primero A384 'Panda' - FULL SET - Ref. A384
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The most iconic chronograph with its original papers and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
There’s so much to say about this watch, so why not start by saying this: this particular model, the ‘El Primero’ A384, was the world first automatic chronograph. With its distinct and instantly recognizable design, the A384 brought a new sense of style and substance to the world of chronographs, becoming a collectible icon.
This model is so legendary that Zenith decided 50 years later, in 2019, to recreate this model but with some noticeable differences, especially: Crystal instead of an acrylic glass, transparent display back replacing the solid steel case back, El Primero 400 chronograph movement instead the cal. 3019 PHC and dial without the 'T' inscription.
When the El Primero automatic chronograph calibre was first announced in 1969, it took the world of watchmaking by storm. It was the first automatic chronograph movement and brought forth a set of distinctive features, which have allowed it to stand the test of time and remain an exceptional movement half a century on: a high frequency of 36’000 vph, a column-wheel chronograph mechanism, and an automatic winding system that delivers 50 hours of power reserve.
Coinciding with the announcement of the movement in 1969, the first watch to house it was also announced: the Zenith El Primero A384. As groundbreaking as its movement was, the A384 also stood out with its original design.
Furthermore, the A384 made headlines back in 1970, when it took part in Zenith’s “Operation Sky”. This extreme test consisted of strapping the watch to an Air France Boeing 707’s landing gear on a flight from Paris to New York to test its resistance to external aggressions such as drastic temperature fluctuations, wind force and changing air pressure. Upon landing, the watch was still functioning perfectly. This daring feat was a testament to the confidence those who had tirelessly worked on the El Primero calibre held, as well as tangible proof that a mechanical movement was superior to the nascent quartz movements of the time, which couldn’t have stood the temperature differences endured by the watch during the flight.
This featured example is really a premium chronometer in an extremely well preserved original condition. It comes as a 'Full Set' (Original guarantee & box), which is extremely rare and collectible !
THE STORY
Though Zenith is most well known for its impressive in-house El Primero chronograph calibers, the brand’s positioning as a master of accuracy predated the mighty El by a fair margin. In 1948, the brand’s Calibre 135 became a new industry benchmark of sorts, achieving chronometer specification and winning a string of over 200 awards.
Most notably, the hand-wound 19-jewel caliber was awarded 5 consecutive Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry prizes from 1950 to 1954—a winning streak previously unheard of in such a contested competition. Evolving over three iterations, the caliber remained in Zenith’s production line consistently through until 1962.
The high-beat El Primero chronograph caliber is a bit of a legend in the industry, and the one that strongly contest the title of first automatic chronograph in existence. That part aside, the first El Primero faced a fascinating bit of torture testing in 1970, as Zenith strapped a watch fitted with this new caliber to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 for Air France flight AF015 before it crossed the Atlantic Ocean between Paris and New York.
Facing temperatures of -62 Celsius at an altitude of 10,000 feet, thewatch survived shockingly unscathed, and other than the time change that obviously couldn’t be accounted for, the chronograph maintained its accuracy within a second by the time it finished its journey.
Zenith lays claim to having opened the first watchmaking “manufacture”, all the way back in 1865. Georges Favre-Jacot decided that rather than sticking to the traditional method of watchmaking of the period—where movement makers would have their own atelier somewhere, dial makers, somewhere else, case makers somewhere else, and so on—he decided the most logical approach would be to house all of these specialized workers in a single facility.
Every watch brand loves to hang their hat on some sort of celebrity connection, however the fact that Mahatma Gandhi carried a Zenith pocket watch is all kinds of cool. Gandhi carried and used the pocket watch (fitted with an alarm complication) for years, and though it was stolen from him in the late ‘40s, it returned to him not much later when the thief was surprisingly overcome with guilt.
Before passing away, Gandhi gifted the pocket watch to his granddaughter, and in 2009 the watch was sold via a well known auction house for a paltry sum of 1.8M USD.
THE DATA
- Maker: Zenith
- Model: El Primero A384
- Reference: A384
- Case N°: 708D1xx
- Year: 1969
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37x48x13mm
- Caliber: In House Zenith 3019 PHC
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather with original Zenith buckle
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Zenith box and guarantee dated 1970
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in top condition. The unpolished case is extremely well preserved with its angles still sharp and original brushing. The dial is in mint condition with the lume present.
All parts are original, among others the particular 'Nato emblem' crown and the red cylindrical case, both specific to this model.
This is a very collectible and sought after chronometer and according to the Zenith specialist Manfred Rössler, this model was manufactured only in 1969 and 1970, housing 3 different dial colors, with a total production of only 2600 pieces !
This scarce chronograph comes with its original guarantee.
It has a sporty and virile presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday wear.
1955 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Panda Dial' Full Set - Ref. 22297 3
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1955 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it has the most desirable 'Panda' pristine original dial, but especially because it features the extremely rare small round push-buttons, as stated by the famous expert Oswaldo Patrizzi in the Antiquorum catalogue. Another scarce characteristic: This chronograph comes with it's original papers and box, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example shows off all the elements that have made the Tri-Compax a modern classic, including the beautifully composed dial. The shape of the hands is highly characteristic of Universal Genève, and there’s just enough color in the red tip of the date hand, to give the watch some subtle but unmistakable zip. A great example of a classic complicated watch in very hard-to-find condition, this is not one you want to miss.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax 'Panda'
- Reference: 22297 3
- Case N°: 1748xxx
- Year: 1955
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x42x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a pristine original dial and a full set of indexes with complete lume, the hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition. This is a great extremely rare triple-quantième chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every situation.
1957 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Silver Linen' Full Set - Ref. 22297 3
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An extremely rare and spectacular Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1957 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it has a beautiful silver 'Linen' pristine original dial, but especially because it features the extremely rare small round push-buttons, as stated by the famous expert Oswaldo Patrizzi in the Antiquorum catalogue. Another scarce characteristic: This chronograph comes with it's original papers and box, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example shows off all the elements that have made the Tri-Compax a modern classic, including the beautifully composed dial. The shape of the hands is highly characteristic of Universal Genève, and there’s just enough color in the red tip of the date hand, to give the watch some subtle but unmistakable zip. A great example of a classic complicated watch in very hard-to-find condition, this is not one you want to miss.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax 'Silver Linen'
- Reference: 22297 3
- Case N°: 18966xx
- Year: 1957
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x42x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a pristine original dial and a full set of indexes with complete lume, the hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition. This is a great extremely rare triple-quantième chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every situation.
1967 Breitling Superocéan Oversized 43mm 'Slow Motion' MK1 + Papers - Ref. 2005
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A Fine and Rare chronograph with its original papers.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
When launched in 1964, this new SuperOcean chronograph (Ref. 2005) impresses customers with its technical complexity elegantly balanced by its clean dial design without any sub-dials and a bold 43mm stainless steel case, with the main purpose being to ensure the highest legibility possible.
The Superocéan 'Slow Motion' ref. 2005 is one of the most iconic and sought-after Breitling watches ever, and this example comes with its original papers guarantee and leaflet, which is extremely rare.
This chronograph dates to 1967, and it has a beautiful overall aesthetic. The movement features a "WOG" engraving, indicating it was destined for the U.S. market. WOG was the U.S. import mark for Breitling and Wakmann Watch Co., the U.S. importer for Breitling at the time.
THE STORY
Building on the success of the first SuperOcean chronograph (Ref. 807), Willy Breitling wishes to advance the technical side of its divers’ watch and offer a new chronograph that enables easy and safe reading of the diving duration, even at the deepest depths of the ocean.
As a minute recorder is too small and not easy to read when under the surface of the water, Willy Breitling decides to use the main chronograph hand to indicate the diving duration. For this, Breitling develops a unique chronograph caliber, called “Slow Motion” that enables the chronograph hand to make one revolution per hour instead of one per minute. The wearer can therefore directly read the diving duration with the chronograph hand and the minute track on the dial without having to look for the minute recorder. However, this makes it nearly impossible to tell at a glance if the chronograph is running or not as the chronograph hand moves too slowly. This can be critical during a dive!
Willy Breitling finds a technical solution to this issue and develops a running indicator, located at 6 o’clock. When the chronograph is launched, this running indicator turns to a yellow disc – it becomes black with a small yellow dot when the chronograph is on hold and returns to an all-black circle when the chronograph is reset and stopped. With this smart technical feature, there is no longer a risk of forgetting that the chronograph is not running under the water.
THE DATA
- Maker: Breitling
- Model: Superocéan 'Slow Motion'
- Reference: 2005
- Case N°: 10767XX
- Year: 1967
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 43x48x15mm
- Caliber: Manually wound Breitling (Modified Venus 188)
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Breitling box + Original 1967 Breitling guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in very well preserved condition, unpolished, all the angles remained sharp. The matching original guarantee and leaflet makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched, the original lume is complete. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1952 Universal Geneve Rose Gold Climate-Proof Compax - Ref. 12299
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Climate-Proof Compax is one of the most desirable and collectible model from the brand. This solid rose gold version, from 1952 is not exceptionnal only by the fact that it was manufactured in very few examples, but especially because of it's beautiful overall condition. 'Climate-Proof' is an unusual weather-proof Compax featuring round small pushers and a inner dust cover.
THE STORY
Universal Genève was founded in LeLocle, Switzerland in 1894 and was known as "Universal Watch". Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why, from 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The silver '2 scales' dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it is printed in black, blue and red color.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs..
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Climate-Proof
- Reference: 12299
- Case N°: 1624xxx
- Year: 1952
- Material: Solid 18k Rose Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid rose gold is extremely well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear.
1942 Universal Geneve Oversized Compur - Ref. 12482
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One of the most desirable and stunning compur.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Compur is a quintessential chronograph from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and well-proportioned case, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This particular model boasts an extra large unrepolished 38mm case, rare size for the era and still striking today, Trademaked in 1937, the Universal Genève Compur range of chronographs featured for the first time in watchmaking history a movement with the second column wheel under the dial, the famous Compur were replaced in the early 1940 by the Uni-Compax.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Compur was lauched in 1937 and quickly became a hit. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful tool watches such as this Compur with two subsidiary dials and applied gold indexes. This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and sporty look.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Compur 18k Yellow Gold
- Reference: 12482
- Case N°: 100xxxx
- Year: 1942
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x42x10mm
- Caliber: In House UG 285
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown aligatorleather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid gold case is very well preserved, and the even very slightly patinated white dial is stunning. This is a great vintage chronograph, elegant and sporty with its round pushers and "sword" hands. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for everyday wear.
