Complications
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Fat Lugs' - Ref. 22259
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A rare and fine Triple-Quantième iconic watch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1943 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but also because it is in a very good condition with a perfect original dial.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax (Aka 'Fat Lugs')
- Reference: 22259
- Case N°: 10668XX
- Year: 1943
- Material: Stainless Steel 'Enversteel'
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35x42x12mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a 'Like new' preserved original dial, unscratched crystal, the 'Sword' hands and case are also in great condition, all angles are very sharp.
This is a great and rare timepiece, elegant and and highly collectible.
A nice presence on the wrist with its 35mm case and 'Fat Lugs', perfect for casual or formal wear.
1967 Breitling Superocéan Oversized 43mm 'Slow Motion' MK1 + Papers - Ref. 2005
A Fine and Rare chronograph with its original papers.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
When launched in 1964, this new SuperOcean chronograph (Ref. 2005) impresses customers with its technical complexity elegantly balanced by its clean dial design without any sub-dials and a bold 43mm stainless steel case, with the main purpose being to ensure the highest legibility possible.
The Superocéan 'Slow Motion' ref. 2005 is one of the most iconic and sought-after Breitling watches ever, and this example comes with its original papers guarantee and leaflet, which is extremely rare.
This chronograph dates to 1967, and it has a beautiful overall aesthetic. The movement features a "WOG" engraving, indicating it was destined for the U.S. market. WOG was the U.S. import mark for Breitling and Wakmann Watch Co., the U.S. importer for Breitling at the time.
THE STORY
Building on the success of the first SuperOcean chronograph (Ref. 807), Willy Breitling wishes to advance the technical side of its divers’ watch and offer a new chronograph that enables easy and safe reading of the diving duration, even at the deepest depths of the ocean.
As a minute recorder is too small and not easy to read when under the surface of the water, Willy Breitling decides to use the main chronograph hand to indicate the diving duration. For this, Breitling develops a unique chronograph caliber, called “Slow Motion” that enables the chronograph hand to make one revolution per hour instead of one per minute. The wearer can therefore directly read the diving duration with the chronograph hand and the minute track on the dial without having to look for the minute recorder. However, this makes it nearly impossible to tell at a glance if the chronograph is running or not as the chronograph hand moves too slowly. This can be critical during a dive!
Willy Breitling finds a technical solution to this issue and develops a running indicator, located at 6 o’clock. When the chronograph is launched, this running indicator turns to a yellow disc – it becomes black with a small yellow dot when the chronograph is on hold and returns to an all-black circle when the chronograph is reset and stopped. With this smart technical feature, there is no longer a risk of forgetting that the chronograph is not running under the water.
THE DATA
- Maker: Breitling
- Model: Superocéan 'Slow Motion'
- Reference: 2005
- Case N°: 10767XX
- Year: 1967
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 43x48x15mm
- Caliber: Manually wound Breitling (Modified Venus 188)
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 22mm
- Box/Papers: Breitling box + Original 1967 Breitling guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This chronograph is in very well preserved condition, unpolished, all the angles remained sharp. The matching original guarantee and leaflet makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched, the original lume is complete. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1991 IWC Ingenieur Chrono Alarm - FULL SET - NEW OLD STOCK - Ref. 3805
A very elegant and sporty iconic wristwatch
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The present IWC is in my opinion the most elegant and virile sport watch ever made. This particular example is new, with its original box and blank guarantee. The «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» another variation of the Genta theme was launched in 1991, this time adding chronograph as well as alarm complications to the Ingenieur line. Thanks to its diameter of 34 mm and its military looking main dial, the «Chrono Alarm» gave a more adult impression than the prior 'Chronograph' (Ref. 3734) .Like its sibling, «Ingenieur Chronograph», the «Chrono Alarm» is equipped with a meca-quartz movement belonging to the calibre 630, the smallest movement of its category ever manufactured. These hybrid calibres were produced by Jaeger-Le Coultre for IWC and combined quarz-controlled stepping motors with a mechanically driven chronograph (more than 250 moving parts). In the case of the Chrono Alarm's calibre 633, it was furthermore enhanced with an alarm function. This horology marvel is among others water resistant to 3 atm and amagnetic to 4,800 A/m (specificity of the 'Ingenieur' line).
These days, the «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» belongs to the most popular models of the Ingenieur line and regarded as a collector's item. The main reason is of course its calibre 633 which belongs the technical marvels among the quartz movements used by IWC.
THE STORY
With a clear focus on technology and development, the Swiss watch manufacturer "International Watch Company" (IWC Schaffhausen) has been producing timepieces of lasting value since 1868. The company has gained international reputation based on a passion for innovative solutions and technical ingenuity. One of the world's leading brands in the luxury watch segment, IWC crafts masterpieces of haute horlogerie at their finest, combining high precision with design.
THE DATA
- Maker: IWC (International Watch Company)
- Model: Ingenieur Chrono Alarm
- Reference: 3805
- Case N°: 25311xx
- Year: 1991
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x40,5x9,5mm
- Caliber: IWC 633
- Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel
- Lug width: N/A
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers (Blank unused guarantee)
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the 'New Old Stock' condition of this wristwatch, unpolished of course, the case has all its angles sharp and polished where they are supposed to be. This chronograph comes with its original box and unused guarantee. The brushed steel case and bracelet gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This chronograph has a nice presence on the wrist and can be worn everyday, for sporting activities and for more formal occasions.
1977 Omega Speedmaster Professional Quartz - FULL SET - Ref. 186.0004
A fine and rare Omega Speedmaster Professional with its original box & papers.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This is the only Speedmaster to be produced with a quartz movement in a Moonwatch Professional case. This was model ST 186.0004 nicknamed LCD Moonwatch by the community. Unnumbered, the production ran only over a year and a half period, in the late seventies, from 1977 to 1979.
The cal. 1620, developed by Omega and SSIH (later to become SMH). Although it has only basic functions by today’s standards, it is neverthless still a very accurate watch, capable of 0.15 seconds per day, or 5 seconds per month.
This is better than a lot of quartz watches available even now. The very good accuracy is due to the high quality quartz resonator used, manufactured in-house by SSIH. You can find more information on this rare chronograph here: https://www.omegalcdspeedmaster.com/
This particular LCD Moonwatch is extremely well preserved, never polished and without noticeable scratches furthermore it comes as a 'Full Set' with its original box & guarantee, a collectors must have !
THE STORY
The Olympic Games – where millions of fans are eager for the thrills and spills of competition sport. Here the supreme arbiter is timekeeping and It must not fail, falter or fumble. Things have truly changed since 1932 when, for the first time, Omega timed the Olympic Games in Los Angeles.
In 1952, responding inventively to the demands of constantly improving sports performance, Omega pioneered the development of electronically assisted sports timekeeping.
Behind the scenes at the Olympic games, a squad of electronics engineers supervised the complex and extremely refined timekeeping equipment. Tailored to individual Olympic disciplines, the equipment was designed to display both the intermediate and final times directly to television screens across across the world to 1/100th of a second; the degree of precision prescribed by the organizing committee for the Games. Omega technicians themselves are monitored performances to 1/1000th of a second!
Everyone appreciated the spectacular mastery of quartz electronic precision during the Olympic games. It stands to reason that a similar commitment to this sophisticated technology came about in the form of a personal, wrist-worn, quartz-piloted instrument: the Omega digital watch.
In 1974, Omega released a series of Speedmasters signed ‘Speedsonic’ (not Speedmaster) and being significantly water resistant they came with Seamaster-signed case backs. The came with the calibre 1255, essentially the ESA 9162/9164 with a chronograph module added, and were designed by Max Hetzel who had previously worked for Bulova.
The Speedsonic is one of the few watches in the Speedmaster family to be certified as a Chronometer. The quartz models, released a few years after the introduction of the Speedsonic, certainly could have qualified but were never submitted for testing.In 1977 watches with the 1620 quartz calibre began to appear with the ref. ST 186.0004. These watches had a digital LCD display and were accurate to 5 seconds per month. They had the typical 1970s quartz digital watch look you’d expect of the period. Some versions were signed Speedmaster Professional Quartz (nicknamed the Pro Quartz), others simply Speedmaster Quartz. Omega produced eight variations of these watches in total, with differences in the shape of the case, gold plating and bracelet vs. strap.
Interestingly, Omega stopped producing the Speedmaster Quartz watches after only about 18 months.
THE DATA
- Maker: Omega
- Model: Speedmaster Professional Quartz (Aka 'LCD Moonwatch')
- Reference: 186.0004
- Year: 1977
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36,5x42,2x9mm
- Caliber: In House Omega 1620
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Omega stainless steel
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Omega box & Guarantee
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in near to mint condition. The case is extremely well preserved, the stainless steel strap in very long and not stretched. All parts are original and every function works properly.
This is a very unusual and collectible Omega Speedmaster that will draw the attention of watch enhousiasts for sure. This scarce chronograph comes with its original box and 1977 Omega guarantee.
It has a nice presence on the wrist with its 36,5mm case and steel bracelet, perfect for everyday wear.
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax - Ref. 22261
An extremely rare and spectacular early Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1943 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but especially because of it's striking case combining solid 18k red gold and stainless steel.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example offers all the features a collector would dream of; An extremely rare version made out of solid red gold and steel with long correctors pushers, the original and very particular 'drop indexes' dial and an overall great condition for a 75 years old timepiece.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax
- Reference: 22261
- Case N°: 947xxx
- Year: 1943
- Material: Solid 18k Red Gold & Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligatorleather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid gold & steel case is well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist due to the large lugs and the protruding pushers, perfect for every situation.
1945 Universal Geneve Calendar - Ref. 11305
An incredibly well preserved triple quantieme.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Calendar is a quintessential complicated watch from Universal Genève; with its balanced dial and very curved spider handles, this watch has maintained its timelessness flawlessly. This particular model boasts a striking 35mm case with it's original dial, the exactly same combination as in the Universal Genève archives.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Calendar range of complicated watches was presented for the first time on the 21 augustus 1943 in Geneva and quickly became a hit. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches such as this Calendar with three subsidiary dials, moonphase and gold hands. This example feature a perfect balance of elegance and refinement.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Calendar Moonphase 18k Yellow Gold
- Reference: 11305
- Case N°: 1186xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 35x43x10mm
- Caliber: In House UG 291
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition for its age. The 18k solid gold case is extremely well preserved and has never been repolished. The champagne unrefinished dial is stunning. This is a great vintage , elegant and rare. Witness of an era with it's curved spider lugs, it has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily andfor all occasions.
1967 Bulova Accutron Astronaut (GMT) - Ref. 11305
The watch chosen by the CIA for pilots of the fastest plane ever made.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Here is an extract from the letter written by Frank Murray (LtCol, USAF):
"The A-12 airplane first flew in april 1962; several years of developmental testing took place before the airplane flew its reconnaissance role in the far east. This airplane operates at speeds well above Mach 3 (2100 mph) at altitudes up to 90.000 feet.
The environmental conditions inside the cockpit saw temperatures as high as 140 degrees at end of cruise legs when the fuel remaining was insufficient to provide the needed heatsink for the airconditioning system.
Ordinary wristwatches worn by the pilots on the outside of their pressure suits were not holding up to these temperatures. A decision was made to try a unique type of watch in this setting. The Bulova Accutron Astronaut model held up to testing, so the CIA decided to furnish the Bulova watch to the CIA pilots flying the A-12.
The CIA provided each pilot with a new Bulova Astronaut watch. These watches became the property of the pilots and they stayed with the pilots whan the program ended in mid 1968."
THE STORY
The Accutron movement developped by Bulova has no balance or balance spring, it uses a tuning fork oscillator, driven by a transistor controlled circuit. The Accutron 214 movement vibrates at 360 Hz and uses a button-cell battery. This was at the time a wonder of miniaturization and micro-engineering, with parts so fine that they are invisible to the naked eye. Because they would run on electric power with no requirement of a mainspring made them highly suitable for use in aerospace applications.
THE DATA
- Maker: Bulova
- Model: Accutron Cosmonaut (GMT)
- Reference: 11305
- Case N°: D347xx - M7
- Year: 1967
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 38x40x14mm
- Caliber: In House Accutron 214
- Bracelet/Strap: Black Nylon NATO
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibly good condition for its age. The impressive 38mm Stainless Steel case is extremely well preserved. The black unrefinished dial is stunning. This is a great vintage legendary watch featuring a very useful second time hand and a 24Hrs rotating bezel. It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1990s Universal Geneve Jump Hour - Ref. 825.125
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A very sophisticated and elegant wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Universal Genève is famous for their creativity in case and dial designs. This particular watch has a very special and elegant combination, this incredibly well preserved watch has never been repolished and the dial is original and perfect. The condition and the scarce model make it truly a collector's timepiece. A Jump Hour movements is a sophistication in horology, this watch comes with it's original guarantee and box.
THE STORY
Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why. The Swiss manufacture consistently produced beautiful complicated watches . This example feature a perfect balance of elegance, refinement and complication.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Jump hour
- Reference: 825.125
- Case N°: 4121xxx
- Year: 1990s
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 27x43x8mm
- Caliber: In House UG 25 Manual wound
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: Box and Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibely good condition. The stainless steel case is well preserved, like new, and has never been repolished. The unrefinished black dial with silver numbers and matching hands is dashing. This is a great sophisicated wristwatch, elegant and rare. The watch has it's original Universal Genève pinbuckle and comes with its original box and papers. It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily and for more formal occasions.
1945 Universal Geneve Oversized Tri-Compax - Ref. 12552
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An extremely well preserved and spectacular Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1945 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first year of the Tri-Compax production, but especially because of it's striking oversized 37mm untouched gold case.
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example offers all the features a collector would dream of; A classic and oversized version made out of solid yellow gold, the original 'gold indexes' dial and an overall great condition for a 75 years old timepiece.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax
- Reference: 12552
- Case N°: 1129xxx
- Year: 1945
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 37x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 287
- Bracelet/Strap: Black aligator leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid yellow gold is extremely well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage triple-quantième chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear.
1990s IWC Ingenieur Chrono Alarm - Full Set 'NEW OLD STOCK' - Ref. 3805
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A very elegant and sporty iconic wristwatch
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The present IWC is in my opinion the most elegant and virile sport watch ever made. This particular example is new, with its original box and blank guarantee. The «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» another variation of the Genta theme was launched in 1991, this time adding chronograph as well as alarm complications to the Ingenieur line. Thanks to its diameter of 34 mm and its military looking main dial, the «Chrono Alarm» gave a more adult impression than the prior 'Chronograph' (Ref. 3734) .Like its sibling, «Ingenieur Chronograph», the «Chrono Alarm» is equipped with a meca-quartz movement belonging to the calibre 630, the smallest movement of its category ever manufactured. These hybrid calibres were produced by Jaeger-Le Coultre for IWC and combined quarz-controlled stepping motors with a mechanically driven chronograph (more than 250 moving parts). In the case of the Chrono Alarm's calibre 633, it was furthermore enhanced with an alarm function. This horology marvel is among others water resistant to 3 atm and amagnetic to 4,800 A/m (specificity of the 'Ingenieur' line).
These days, the «Ingenieur Chrono Alarm» belongs to the most popular models of the Ingenieur line and regarded as a collector's item. The main reason is of course its calibre 633 which belongs the technical marvels among the quartz movements used by IWC.
THE STORY
With a clear focus on technology and development, the Swiss watch manufacturer "International Watch Company" (IWC Schaffhausen) has been producing timepieces of lasting value since 1868. The company has gained international reputation based on a passion for innovative solutions and technical ingenuity. One of the world's leading brands in the luxury watch segment, IWC crafts masterpieces of haute horlogerie at their finest, combining high precision with design.
THE DATA
- Maker: IWC (International Watch Company)
- Model: Ingenieur Chrono Alarm
- Reference: 3805
- Case N°: 2525xxx
- Year: 1990s
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x40,5x9,5mm
- Caliber: IWC 633
- Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel
- Lug width: N/A
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers (Blank unused guarantee)
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
We particularly appreciate the 'New Old Stock' condition of this wristwatch coming with its box and unused guarantee. The brushed steel case and bracelet gives an unbeatable exclusive touch. This chronographhas a nice presence on the wrist and can be worn everyday, for sporting activities and even for more formal occasions.
1955 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Panda Dial' Full Set - Ref. 22297 3
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1955 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it has the most desirable 'Panda' pristine original dial, but especially because it features the extremely rare small round push-buttons, as stated by the famous expert Oswaldo Patrizzi in the Antiquorum catalogue. Another scarce characteristic: This chronograph comes with it's original papers and box, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example shows off all the elements that have made the Tri-Compax a modern classic, including the beautifully composed dial. The shape of the hands is highly characteristic of Universal Genève, and there’s just enough color in the red tip of the date hand, to give the watch some subtle but unmistakable zip. A great example of a classic complicated watch in very hard-to-find condition, this is not one you want to miss.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax 'Panda'
- Reference: 22297 3
- Case N°: 1748xxx
- Year: 1955
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x42x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a pristine original dial and a full set of indexes with complete lume, the hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition. This is a great extremely rare triple-quantième chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every situation.
1947 Vulcain Cricket MK1 'The President's Watch'
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A fine and extremely well preserved iconic wristwatch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
In 1947 Vulcain launched the first ever mechanical alarm movement, which soon achieved worldwide fame. The legendary Cricket calibre took flight before finding its place in the history books as “The Presidents’ Watch”. American heads of state Dwight Eisenhower, Harry Trumann, Richard Nixon and Lyndon Johnson all wore a Vulcain on their wrist, a fact that earned the brand its prestigious reputation. But the technical qualities of Vulcain watches also appealed to explorers and adventurers. From the 1950s onwards, the brand in Le Locle was to partner famous mountaineering and maritime expeditions.
This particular Vulcain Cricket is in 'Museum Condition', the overall condition is stunning, 100% original and working like when it was manufactured 73 years ago !
THE STORY
Vulcain’s history started in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1858 when the two brothers Ditisheim founded their workshop for high-end pocket watches. Their exquisite work not only earned them several World Fair medals, but also created a need for a brand name that they could use to sell their products all over the world. In 1898 they adopted the name Vulcain. This is the French name for the Roman god Vulcan, ruler of fire and volcanoes, and often connected to gold- and blacksmiths.
It was Robert Ditisheim, one of the brother’s son, who took on the challenge of creating the first alarm wristwatch. An interesting fact about the Cricket was that its development started in 1942, in the midst of WWII. This almost makes one wonder
whether its original purpose was military rather than civilian. The development took 5 years in which many obstacles had to be taken. The main challenge was to create an alarm that was loud enough. Vulcain achieved this by creating a mechanism where a hammer hits a membrane. This sound is then amplified by the double case back which acts as a resonance chamber. A designated barrel for the alarm function ensures that the alarm sounds for at least 20 seconds when fully wound. The name Cricket comes from the sound that the alarm makes; quite similar to that of the little insect that shares the same name.
The Cricket got a warm welcome once it was released. Especially in the United States it was embraced by the public. True fame came for the Cricket when the White House Press Photographer’s Association presented President Harry S. Truman with a Vulcain Cricket. President Truman was the first of three US Presidents that actively wore their Cricket, the others being President Dwight D. Eisenhower and President Lyndon B. Johnson. Johnson was even such a fan of the Cricket that during his presidency he gave about 200 Cricket’s away as presents.
THE DATA
- Maker: Vulcain
- Model: Cricket MK1
- Reference: N/A
- Year: 1947
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x43x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House Vulcain 120
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredible condition. The unpolished case is very well preserved, and the original two-tone dial with original lume present looks great. This is a fine classic timepiece, elegant and convenient, perfect for everyday wear.
1990' Chopard 'Tonneau' Power Reserve White Gold + Box - Ref. 16/2248
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A fine and elegant Chopard 'manufacture' in white gold
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This impressive and refined timepiece features all the characteristics of elegance and watchmaking savoir-faire. The perfect balance of the silver 'guilloché' dial displays the special functions of the automatic extra-flat movement; Power reserve and circular date. The generous 'Tonneau' shaped solid gold case has a very nice presence on the wrist. Important details like the Bréguet blued steel hands, guilloché dial, sapphire on the crown, very flat 'two-stepped' case with sapphire crystal, gives an unrivalled touch to this very well preserved timepiece.
THE STORY
Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer from Sonvilier, quickly conquered Switzerland and the world at the age of 24. The artisan watchmaker created works of art with innovative designs, which early on helped him export to such illustrious places like the court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Qualities like precision and reliability were very sought-after characteristics in watches, dating all the way back to the 19th century. With unique chronometers and pocket watches, Louis-Ulysse Chopard aimed to fulfill and exceed these "desires".
Chopard is one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewelry company. Karl-Friedrich, who managed the men's collections, developed sports watches during the 1980s and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, which produces the L.U.C movements, in the 1990s.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chopard
- Model: Tonneau 'Power Reserve'
- Reference: 16/2248
- Case N°: 4115xx
- Year: 1990'
- Material: Solid 18k Wite Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38x7mm
- Caliber: Chopard 9644 automatic
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather with Chopard 18k solid gold pinbuckle
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Chopard box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition and comes with its original Chopard box. The solid gold case and matching original gold buckle mounted on a new strap, is very well preserved. The silver guilloché dial with Bréguet hands is just mesmerising. This is a very elegant and sharp complicated watch. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and formal occasions.
1964 Enicar Sherpa 'Super-Divette' MK1 - FULL SET - Ref. 144-35-01
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A Fine and Rare iconic watch with its original guarantee and box.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
In 1964 Enicar announced a new two crown dive watch, based on the automatic AR1145 calibre movement. Dr Hans Hass was a well-known researcher who featured in advertising using the single crown Enicar diver models. Since the Divette was their single crown brand, Enicar used the brand Super Divette for the two crown model.
The crown at 2hrs is for adjusting the internal diving countdown disc.
This particular, extremely well preserved model comes with its original box and guarantee from 1964. All parts are original, even the perfect unfindable crystal.
THE STORY
1854: In early 19th century, the small towns in northwest region of Switzerland such as La Chaux-de-Fonds and Granges, became the centers of Swiss watchmaking. At that time, Racine was a well-known family of watchmaking based in Granges.
1914: Founder Ariste Racine reversed his last name to establish the brand “Enicar”. Ever since, he devoted himself to produce high quality timepieces, among of few, his innovated readable pocket watches, were most-loved by European soldiers and railway crews during WWI.
1930: The new factory set up in Bienne was a significant move that enabled the growth of Enicar’s avant-garde watchmaking excellence. With its name widely spread across European countries, the automatic waterproof collection successfully made its debut to the markets.
1931: Late 30s – 50s were the period of great change. Enicar created a series of Sherpa watches: Dive, Divette and Mini-dive with endurable designs that can live up to extreme harsh environment - corrosive seawater, high pressures, and rapid temperature changes.
1946: With pioneering vision, Enicar’s mechanical watches never ceased to lead the markets with trends. During the 40s, the brand continued to grow with an aim to explore new boundaries. The first chronograph model appeared for the first time in the market marked a prominent step to success.
1951: Enicar took a great step forward with the design of Sherpa jet watches, which were designated by US Air Force during WWII. After war period, Sherpa Collection entered Asian market with gusto to offer Asians both the advanced complications in aviation timing and later on, the mountaineering timing. Today, Sherpa Collection still remains as one of the most remarkable models.
1955: In the early 50s, Enicar received the first certification of accuracy from the renowned Neuchâtel Observatory - the forerunner of C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). The certificate was a symbol of highest precision and reliability.
1956: The 1956 Swiss Expedition set out to conquer successfully the summit of Mount Everest and the Himalayan Ranges, was equipped with Enicar chronometers which had brought the world’s acclaim after the ascent. One of the members, Ernst Reiss, credited the watch for its exceptional precision in extreme weather conditions. Meanwhile, the waterproof Ultrasonic dive watch – Sea Pearl was introduced.
1957: Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer was installed on the rudder of Mayflower II – the replica of 17th century Mayflower. Though immersed into seawater for the 50-day Atlantic voyage, the watch was proved to run with excellent performance in face of harsh conditions, as credited by the ship Captain Alan Villiers.
1958: The British Formula One Champion Stiring Moss took Enicar Ultrasonic Sherpa Chronometer as the reliable timekeeper at his trials. Struck by exceptional performance, the Sherpa varieties were later on, highly acclaimed by Australian World Tennis Champion Ken Rosewall and British Motorcycle Racing Champion Geoff Duke.
1960: An exhibition illustrating the daily life of Lei Feng, the China's people comrade, showcases the accessories including his Enicar watch - all in his Memorial Hall.
1962: Evolving beyond the traditional confines of watchmaking, Enicar unveiled the latest model – Supertest that featured Rubyrotor movement with 30 jewels. The simplicity of the system guaranteed high precision and kept correct time to the second.
1970: Late 60s to 70s were the world of quartz movements. Enicar introduced quartz watches featuring Beta 21 movement developed by the renowned Centre Eletronique Horloger in Switzerland and had won “The Watch of Precision”.
1993: In 1993, Sotheby’s had a large auction of Soviet space ware, of which the antiques Enicar vintage models firstly became a spectacular part. These timepieces were a splendid collection owned by Sergey Korolyov, the eminent Soviet rocket engineer during 50s – 60s.
1994: Enicar was selected as the official watch sponsor for the 12th Asian Games in Hiroshima, Japan. In 1996, Enicar also became the official gift sponsor for the Chinese delegations in the 26th Atlanta Olympic Games.
THE DATA
- Maker: Enicar
- Model: Sherpa 'Super-Divette'
- Reference: 144-35-01
- Case N°: 7312XX
- Year: 1964
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x44x14mm
- Caliber: Enicar AR1145
- Bracelet/Strap: Genuine leather
- Lug width: 18mm
- Box/Papers: Original Enicar box & guarantee.
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This iconic diving watch is in very well preserved condition, the serial number is clear and visible and the black dial is flawless. The matching original guarantee and box makes this legendary watch a rare and very appealing timepiece. All parts are original and untouched. It has a virile and sporty presence on the wrist an can be worn daily. This impressive timepiece will, for sure, draw attention from all the watch collectors who appreciate design and rarity !
1965 Glycine Airman (First generation) Vintage Vietnam Era - Ref. 314050
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The iconic watch, chosen by the U.S. Fighting pilots during the Vietnam war.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
Glycine’s first 24-hour watch was developed and launched in the USA. In the 1950s a new model was developed and presented within four months. At first there was only the white version with pencil hands and the PM/AM model. It was a success in the USA and further feedback provided the necessary adjustments to turn it into a world hit.
It is most likely that around 1955 the black version with the famous arrow hand was presented in Basel.
Rolex launched one of the first GMT watches with two hour hands in 1954. Glycine therefore was a trendsetter in the field of pilot watches. The Airman could display two time zones with just one hour hand and was therefore easily manufactured without extra costs for the consumer.
This background gives us a better understanding as to why this small watch, displaying
only 24 hours, was sold with tremendous success in a 12 hour dominated watch world. It was the world getting smaller. The civil airlines and their growing number of passengers demanded a modern watch that was equipped with:
-black 24-hour dial with luminous hands and markings for clear visibility
-rotating bezel for setting a second time zone
-hack second to synchronize time
-date display
-arrow hour hand
-automatic movement
-waterproof
It is very difficult to source one of these iconic watches undammaged with the hacking system working and 100% original, furthermore there were many fakes on the market (As displayed in one of the photos).
Therefore, I am very happy to offer here a superb example that is very well preserved, unpolished and with the hacking system operative.
THE STORY
Today the stately villa at the rue Frédéric-Ingold 5 in Biel Switzerland once again is the residence of part of the Glycine Watch company. The place is still suffused with the grandeur of the old watch age. The glycine (wisteria) is growing against its wall and the green GLYCINE-ALTUS markings are still against the façade. These words in themselves represent the first of many misty historical facts. Two watch companies, Montres Altus S.A. and Manufacture D’Horlogerie Glycine S.A. merged around 1960.
Why the name Altus was dropped to become a model name for a Glycine watch remains unclear.
In the 1920s, watches for the world’s rich and famous were made in this villa. During its early history Glycine became famous for its small movements in priceless ladies watches. Around 1931 Meylan, founder of Glycine in 1914, presented the world with a well functioning self-winding watch of his own invention. Together with his officially tested and past chronometer it was not enough to keep the depression from the door. Glycine, however, survived and was one of the few participants of the Basel Fair in 1938.
Charles Hertig Sr., owner of Glycine since 1953, made the company world famous with the Glycine Airman pilot watch that was launched in the same year.
In 1984 Hans Brechbühler took over the company from Charles Hertig Jr.. Hans’s daughter Katherina teamed up with her father in 1992. This combination had the right ingredients to relaunch the mechanical watch and ultimately the Airman in 1998.
In 2011 Katherina handed the company over to its new owner the Altus Uhren
Holding AG. Stephan Lack took over as CEO of Glycine Watch SA.
THE DATA
- Maker: Glycine
- Model: Airman (First Generation from 1960 to 1967)
- Reference: Pat. 314050
- Case N°: 6998XX
- Year: 1965
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36,5x46x12mm
- Caliber: Glycine Automatic (Base: A. Schild 1701)
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in incredibly good condition for its age. The Stainless Steel case is extremely well preserved and unpolished with the angles still sharp, all parts are original.
The black original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage legendary watch featuring a very useful 24Hrs lockable rotating bezel and a hacking function.
It has a nice presence on the wrist an can be worn daily.
1943 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Harry Truman' - Ref. 12551
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A rare and fine Triple-Quantième iconic watch.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1943 is not exceptionnal by the fact that it was manufactured in the first months of the Tri-Compax production, but also because it is the same model that was worn by the American president Harry Truman.
THE STORY
1894 The origins
Talented watch makers Numa Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, found a company specializing in making complicated watches. Foreign trade develops rapidly and products are enthusiastically received.
1897 Early successes
Descombes dies and Perret associates with Louis Edouard Berthoud in making complete pocket-watches. In 1898 they present a chronograph with 30-counter, the Universal Watch Extra, and subsequently release their first wristwom chronograph in 1917.
1934 A legend in the making
The company is renamed Universal Watch, relocates to Geneva and enjoys impressive and international growth. A succession of elegant and complicated models — the Compax, Aero-Compax and Tri-Compax (1930-40), Polerouter (1954) and Microtor UG66 (1966) — leave and indelible imprint on their area.
1960’s A brand on the move
In keeping with its taste for innovation, Universal Genève launches the world’s thinnest quartz calibre in 1975. During the 1980s and 90s, the brand enjoys an impressive international reputation and its represented in South-East Asia, the Middle East and Italy.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax (Aka 'Harry Truman')
- Reference: 12551
- Case N°: 1129XXX
- Year: 1943
- Material: Solid 18K Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 36x45x12,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 267
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 20mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a very well preserved original dial, unscratched crystal, the gold hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition, all angles are very sharp. There is absolutely no sign of corrosion on the movement.
This is a great and rare timepiece, elegant and and highly collectible.
A nice presence on the wrist with its 36mm case, perfect for casual or formal wear.
1957 Universal Geneve Tri-Compax 'Silver Linen' Full Set - Ref. 22297 3
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An extremely rare and spectacular Tri-Compax.
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most desirable and most collectible watch on the vintage market. This version, from 1957 is exceptionnal not only by the fact that it has a beautiful silver 'Linen' pristine original dial, but especially because it features the extremely rare small round push-buttons, as stated by the famous expert Oswaldo Patrizzi in the Antiquorum catalogue. Another scarce characteristic: This chronograph comes with it's original papers and box, a collectors dream !
THE STORY
The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a reference in design and elegance since the early 1940', the perfectly balanced dial has been an example since then. The Tri-Compax was officially lauched in Basel in 1944 and there are dozens of versions of it. They have become more and more avidly sought by collectors over the past few years and it's easy to see why. This example shows off all the elements that have made the Tri-Compax a modern classic, including the beautifully composed dial. The shape of the hands is highly characteristic of Universal Genève, and there’s just enough color in the red tip of the date hand, to give the watch some subtle but unmistakable zip. A great example of a classic complicated watch in very hard-to-find condition, this is not one you want to miss.
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Tri-Compax 'Silver Linen'
- Reference: 22297 3
- Case N°: 18966xx
- Year: 1957
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34,5x42x14mm
- Caliber: In House UG 281
- Bracelet/Strap: Black leather
- Lug width: 19mm
- Box/Papers: Box & Papers
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in great condition with a pristine original dial and a full set of indexes with complete lume, the hands and unrepolished case are also in great condition. This is a great extremely rare triple-quantième chronograph, elegant, sporty and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every situation.
1952 Universal Geneve Rose Gold Climate-Proof Compax - Ref. 12299
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WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
The Universal Genève Climate-Proof Compax is one of the most desirable and collectible model from the brand. This solid rose gold version, from 1952 is not exceptionnal only by the fact that it was manufactured in very few examples, but especially because of it's beautiful overall condition. 'Climate-Proof' is an unusual weather-proof Compax featuring round small pushers and a inner dust cover.
THE STORY
Universal Genève was founded in LeLocle, Switzerland in 1894 and was known as "Universal Watch". Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal Genève was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch. Universal Genève has been on the up and up over the past few years and it's easy to see why, from 1935 onwards the Compax was the ultimate three-register chronograph from Universal Genève. The silver '2 scales' dial is one of the main highlights of this watch, as it is printed in black, blue and red color.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their elegant case and dial designs..
THE DATA
- Maker: Universal Genève
- Model: Climate-Proof
- Reference: 12299
- Case N°: 1624xxx
- Year: 1952
- Material: Solid 18k Rose Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 34x44,5x11,5mm
- Caliber: In House UG 481
- Bracelet/Strap: Brown leather
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: N/A
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition for its age. The 18k solid rose gold is extremely well preserved, and the even silver/white original dial is stunning. This is a great vintage chronograph, elegant and and highly collectible. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear.
1990' Chopard 'Tonneau' Power Reserve automatic - Ref. 2248
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A fine and elegant Chopard 'manufacture'
WHY IS THIS WATCH SPECIAL
This impressive and refined timepiece features all the characteristics of elegance and watchmaking savoir-faire. The perfect balance of the silver 'guilloché' dial displays the special functions of the automatic extra-flat movement; Power reserve and circular date. The generous 'Tonneau' shaped solid gold cases has a very nice presence on the wrist. Important details like the Bréguet blued steel hands, guilloché dial, sapphire on the crown, very flat 'two-stepped' case with sapphire crystal, gives an unrivalled touch to this very well preserved timepiece.
THE STORY
Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer from Sonvilier, quickly conquered Switzerland and the world at the age of 24. The artisan watchmaker created works of art with innovative designs, which early on helped him export to such illustrious places like the court of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. Qualities like precision and reliability were very sought-after characteristics in watches, dating all the way back to the 19th century. With unique chronometers and pocket watches, Louis-Ulysse Chopard aimed to fulfill and exceed these "desires".
Chopard is one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewelry company. Karl-Friedrich, who managed the men's collections, developed sports watches during the 1980s and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, which produces the L.U.C movements, in the 1990s.
THE DATA
- Maker: Chopard
- Model: Tonneau 'Power Reserve'
- Reference: 2248
- Case N°: 3782xx
- Year: 1990'
- Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimentions (WxHxT): 33x38x7mm
- Caliber: Chopard 9644 automatic
- Bracelet/Strap: Original Chopard black aligator with Chopard 18k solid gold buckle
- Lug width: 17mm
- Box/Papers: Original Chopard box
THE IMPORTANT DETAILS
This watch is in extremely good condition and comes with its original Chopard box. The solid gold case and matching original gold buckle mounted on a new Chopard aligator strap, is verywell preserved. The silver guilloché dial with Bréguet hands is just mesmerising. This is a very elegant and sharp complicated watch. A nice presence on the wrist, perfect for every day wear and formal occasions.
